I would be sure the timing marks are lined up to be sure you have good feel for how to find the proper mechanical timing. Please rotate the crank again to see if the marks for the cams line up with the 0 degree mark on the flywheel. Remember the crank is the driving shaft(important) and the cams are the driven shafts. If you are turning by the cams, you will not get an accurate reading because of the driving/driven relationship and the position of the chain tensioner. The best way is to turn the motor by the crankshaft clockwise (reference-looking from the drivers seat toward the motor). This allows all the slack in the timing chain to be on the tensioner side. Rotate to 0 degrees and see if the marks all line up. Once you have this experience and understand the driving/driven/tensioner relationship, you're ready to replace the chain. Look at the new chain and figure out how the open link works. A master link with a clip or a link without peened pins are the usual arrangements. WARNING-Do not allow loose parts, or the chain, to fall into the bottom of the motor. Use wire, rags and other devices to be sure the chain ends do not fall into the bottom after the chain is broken. Break your old chain with a chain breaker, or a grinder, to remove the peened over pins. Remove the chain tensioner from the head. Attach the new chain to the old one and feed it through the sprockets while turning the crankshaft. When the begininng comes around, remove the old chain and link the new chain together. If it's the peen over type, use a ball peen hammer, or punch, backed up by a piece of steel and mushroom the pins slightly. With a master link type, keep the open end of the retaining clip at the back pin with respect to the motion of the chain. This keeps it from popping off if it bumps something. Reinstall the tensioner. Now redo your mechanical timing like before and remember...one tooth offset may not seem like much, but needs to be right on the money. Offsetting a tooth may require the tensioner to be removed to get slack in the chain. Trial and error is needed until it's dialed in perfectly. Take your time and recheck often. Good luck.

posted by 65.96.242...

• Alternative Timing Chain Replacement - 2 Q's..., Jello4j - 900, Sat, 21 May 2005 14:17:27
  • Open-link chain isn't easier..., GregD, Sat, 21 May 2005 23:17:54
    • Re: Trying to solve, Jello4j - 900, Sun, 22 May 2005 21:21:07
      • Re: Trying to solve, GregD, Sun, 22 May 2005 21:42:27
        • Re: The marks on my cams are, Jello4j - 900, Mon, 23 May 2005 19:24:47
          • jello4j; remember there are two (2) TDCs, rotate your, John R. Asp, Mon, 23 May 2005 20:17:04
            • Re: jello4j; remember there are two (2) TDCs, rotate your, Jello4j - 900, Tue, 24 May 2005 18:58:32
              • Excellent, now we are getting somewhere..., John in CT, Tue, 24 May 2005 19:19:36
                • Re: Excellent, now we are getting somewhere..., Jello4j - 900, Thu, 26 May 2005 19:24:41
                  • Re: Excellent, now we are getting somewhere..., John in CT, Thu, 26 May 2005 19:45:54
            • Re: jello4j; remember there are two (2) TDCs, rotate your, Jello4j - 900, Tue, 24 May 2005 18:47:03
            • that's CCW when viewed from front of engine....., john in CT, Mon, 23 May 2005 20:58:53
        • The teeth on my 239K mile 900S cams look like new, john in CT, Mon, 23 May 2005 17:28:15
  • Re: Alternative Timing Chain Replacement - 2 Q's..., tweetiedancer, Sat, 21 May 2005 16:00:36 <-- Viewing This Message
    • Re: Alternative Timing Chain Replacement - 2 Q's..., Jello4j - 900, Sat, 21 May 2005 20:54:41
      • After you remover the AC compressor you will see the, john in CT, Sun, 22 May 2005 16:31:12

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