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1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
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Re: Related (similar) situation - CMyles? Posted by CMyles [Email] In Reply to: Related (similar) situation - CMyles?, Sven, Wed, 14 Feb 2007 13:46:35 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Sven,
You've got the makings of a winner. Swapping an automatic for a 5 speed is a sizable project with a lot of small details to tend to but it helps to have a complete donor car right there. Don't forget that you have to install a clutch pedal, master cylinder, master to slave line and resevoir to master hose. You may have to swap tranny front covers to accomadate your front motor mount. If so, take a count on the chain sprockets. You may want to swap those too. Read about removing and replacing the input shaft nut if you want to swap the chainwheels (it's tricky to remove and must be securely replaced).
The deal on the inner drivers is to first take a good look at the ones in the 5 speed. They've probably been updated long ago. If they have only 2 rings (including the one under the boot) they're the new style and will go right in to your late car so it's just a question of what shape they're in. Feel for dents in the drive surfaces. If they're nice and flat and smooth then you've gotten off easy. If the inner drivers have 3 rings (1 under the boot, 2 out) then you'll have to change them. The key is that when you remove the inner driver assemblies (do 1 at a time only) from the main case the shims and driver support housing must go exactly back where they came from. With the assembly out remove the snap ring and push out the inner driver. Here's your chance to replace the oil seal, o'ring and axle bearing before you push the new driver in and replace the snap ring. Then bolt the assembly back onto the main case. Coat the six bolts with thread sealant (not thread locker) or you'll have a leak (or six). Some guys just swap the complete assembly, inner driver and housing, but (technically) that is expecting the two housings to be cast and machined identically and Saab doesn't think they are. Also unless you swap the differential side bearing outer race you're cross matching worn bearing parts. To sum up, the correct approach is to change nothing except the inner driver itself and put everything else right back where it came from or you risk upsetting the differential ring gear backlash and side bearing preload.
Generally speaking, the early C900 5 speeds weren't as sturdy as the later ones but they were certainly OK so it's just a question of how many miles are on it and how well has it been cared for. Cheers.
posted by 206.123.221...
, Wed, 14 Feb 2007 09:11:48
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