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Re: Suspension refresh - any order? Posted by vvack0matic [Email]  (#1443) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from vvack0matic) on Wed, 20 Jun 2007 13:14:10
In Reply to: Re: Suspension refresh - any order?, ChrisMiami  [Profile/Gallery]
, Wed, 20 Jun 2007 10:53:41
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the two cinder blocks are to be placed next to each other with about 8 inches between the two,
remove the steering knuckle from the car and place one side of the knuckle on one cinder block and the other side of the knuckle on the other.
with the hub (road wheel side) pointing down toward the ground.
with the 20 mm deep well socket place it on the back part of the hub
(the part facing up, grab the mini sludge and with one swing smack the 20mm socket, the energy will transfer to the hub popping it right out of the wheel bearing that is still in the steering knuckle.
pull the hub out, and grab the 24 mm socket and place it on the bearing,
give it a smack, the bearing will take at lest 5 swings before it pops out the other side. (be sure to remove the c-clip of the bearing after the hub is out)
the hole process using the cinder blocks to smack the hub and wheel bearing out of the steering knuckle will only take 10 min.
or if you want to avoid losing sweat over this, take the knuckle with hub to your local mechanic and have them pull it.
the vice is for the removal of the control arm bushings.
this will require a 20 mm bolt with a two inch shaft.
place the edge of the bushing housing on one side of the vice and then place the head of the bolt in the middle of the bushing and then the end of the bolt on the other end of the vice and start to tighten.
the bolt will force the bushing out.
with liquid soap smear some all over the new bushing and within the housing then grab a huge washer we are talking about a washer the size of the housing, then place the housing on one side of the vice then the bushing then the washer and press it in.
hole process will take 5 minutes, just finding all the parts to use takes all the time.
installation of the new wheel bearing:
with the knuckle still on the cinder blocks go head and flip it over,
get a rag and clean the inside of the knuckle then place the new wheel bearing in the hole and start taping it into place using the bearings outer edge as the contact point between bearing and mini sludge, tap it in the same way one tightens a road wheel, (12 o clock then 6 o clock 3 o clock then 9 o clock, repeat until the bearing is down as low as the knuckle, then grab the axle nut deep well socket and run it on the edge of the bearing continuing to tap it lower until its fully set in place, then put the c-clip in.
next grab a 2x4 place it on one of the cinder blocks then place the hub (face down shaft up) on the 2x4 then line up the bearing hole on top of the hub shaft, grab the 23mm and place it on the inner side of the wheel bearing and with one good hit smack the 23mm,
grab the axle nut deep well socket and proceed on taping the outer bearing wall (that's within the steering knuckle)
continue taping or smacking until the hub shaft is fully set.
the process of installing the wheel bearing would only take 5 min. the process of installing hub is another 5 min.
but then again if saving sweat is in mind take the knuckle to a mechanic and spot them 100 bux.
and to try to use the vice to install the wheel bearing and hub,.... well i don't think its possible, or at lest i never done it that way.
just a tip, remember when removing the hub from the steering knuckle to make sure to do it in one good hit. if you slowly tap it out,.. half of the inner wheel bearing will remain on the hub shaft leaving you with quite a chore on your hands.
posted by 71.206.93...
, Wed, 20 Jun 2007 04:01:41, Wed, 20 Jun 2007 07:44:37
, Wed, 20 Jun 2007 10:31:40, Wed, 20 Jun 2007 10:53:41, Wed, 20 Jun 2007 13:14:10 <-- Viewing This Message, Wed, 20 Jun 2007 14:55:52
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