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, Thu, 28 Jun 2007 04:35:12
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Being able to remove and replace the line at the clutch MC is going to require access to that unit, which is beneath the brake MC. Depending on the car engine, you may not have room to work on it without at least disconnecting the brake MC and pulling it to one side without disconnecting or damaging the two main brake line connections. The intake manifold and the alternator may also be in the way, as well as the air box and CIS fuel distributor if you have that type of engine. If you find that you have to remove many components to do the job, requiring you to drain the fluid reservoir, then the self bleeding method I described won't work.
In that case, a reverse bleed is an option. That's basically using the bleed screw nipple at the slave to supply the clutch MC with fluid while at the same time removing air from the system. What you do is rig up a five foot or so clear flexible plastic tubing of the right diameter to fit tightly over the bleed nipple, then a short piece of tubing the next size larger so the smaller hose fits inside the larger snugly, then fit the other end of the larger piece inside the bottom of a plastic funnel. With the proper funnel size, the plastic tube will fit in it's bottom snugly so it won't leak. Then you suspend that funnel rig on top of the opened hood. At least a few feet above the level of the fluid reservoir tank. Most plastic funnels these days have a little tab with a hole in it for hanging on a wall rack. You can use that hole with a stiff wire to keep it suspended on the hood lip.
Then pour in enough fluid so it fills up the tube and halfway inside the funnel, then open the bleed nipple. You'll see the air inside the slave rise up the tube. And since the funnel is above the level of the reservoir, gravity forces the fluid up through the entire system until it begins to flow back inside the reservoir. At that point you've effectively bled the system of air. Once you see fluid rising up in the res tank, you can then fill it. It may take a while by gravity alone. I've managed to speed the process by fitting a length of the smaller size tubing down inside the funnel hose and blow air into it, which forces the fluid to move faster. If the fluid sinks down to the near the slave, you'll have to remove that piece of inserted tubing from the funnel to allow the hose to fill back up with fluid.
Before removing the fluid filled plastic tube and closing the nipple, s l o w l y pressing and releasing the clutch pedal will also help dislodge air. There won't be any resistance at all when you do that since you have no pressure plate to move. All you're doing is moving fluid back and forth and helping to dislodge air bubbles inside the slave and the MC. Any air inside the slave will rise up in the plastic tube, and any air inside the mc will float up inside the reservoir. Because you'll no doubt still have some fluid in the funnel and the plastic line, clamping it or just folding it over while removing it from the bleed nipple is advisable. Then just pour the remaining fluid back into the bottle.
If you have the equipment to do a proper bleed job from above, then the process is shortened in terms of time spent.
posted by 207.200.116...
, Thu, 28 Jun 2007 04:35:12, Fri, 29 Jun 2007 14:02:31, Fri, 29 Jun 2007 04:09:34, Thu, 28 Jun 2007 09:38:46
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