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Re: Diving into auto to manual conversion Posted by Saana88 [Email] (#207) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Saana88) on Tue, 16 Dec 2008 18:02:51 In Reply to: Diving into auto to manual conversion, Bob_SAAB_101 [Profile/Gallery] , Sun, 14 Dec 2008 20:16:08 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
A '90 Turbo transmission will work very well. It will have a higher final drive suited to the higher torque output of the B212. You will need to change the transmission dipstick and side cover plate to one from a 2.1 liter car. Instead of a formal dipstick or the little plastick one, this will be a bolt in an angled fitting on the side cover that has a dipstick beneath it.
While you're at it, I recommend changing anything on the engine (timing chain guides and crank pulley and oil pump seal if they're wearing especially) or chassis (upper A-arm bushings, shifter "dog bone" coupling) while you have the opportunity. Back when I did it on my 8 valve I replaced both rear motor mounts (rubber on 8V) and the crank pulley, both a whole lot easier when you've got everything apart. This is also a very good time to replace the motor oil dipstick tube, especially if you have any trouble removing the old one. Think old plastic that has seen fourteen years of oil vapor- you bet it's going to be brittle.
Be sure the donor transmission you're getting is a good one. Change the transmission fluid (wears out with age and mileage and heat exposure) so aside from smooth shifting you'll have clean fluid and gasketry that does not leak.
Obey the Bentley procedure for using sealant between the engine and transmission. I believe Saab discontinued the actual gasket and just has you make the union with gasket-making material. Get a big tube of anaerobic sealant and use it where the seal sees oil or oil vapors. Get a medium-sized tube of blue RTV or thermostat/water pump sealant and use it wherever the gasket sees coolant. USE A TORQUE WRENCH. This is especially important on stuff that threads into difficult places like the head.
If your ball joints haven't been replaced lately, count on them being difficult to get out.
And finally, work out the details before you get into it. Are you using the shifter from the donor car? That's fine, but if you can get one from 1991 and newer it will have better feel. My '92 S convertible (yep, nearly identical to yours) has the newer shifter on an '89 non-turbo gearbox. On that one, the gears are very close together (I prefer the steep fifth gear so I get better mileage) but it works just fine. My other 900 is an '88 with an '89 gearbox with the older style of shifter in it. It shifts fine, but it's a little more vague to a beginner.
Other stuff to worry aboot- get a second pedal switch for the cruise control, or replace 'em both if and when you break one trying to get the pedal assemblies swapped out. Photograph and label everything under the hood- wiring harness connectors, grounds especially, components, mounting bolts, you got it. The better you prepare the better the job will go. I had no bolts left over except for the ones that went to slushamatic crap. Despite having more low-end torque in the 8 valve motor, going from three gears to five made my '88 a totally different and better car.
Give us a yell if you run into any issues. You can do it!
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