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Exactly that... Posted by Justin VanAbrahams [Email]  (#32) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Justin VanAbrahams) on Wed, 22 Jul 2009 11:44:25
In Reply to: Re: replacing brake master...bleeding, AaronG, Wed, 22 Jul 2009 05:56:51 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Spot on... and, for clarity, you don't have to do the clutch at all, since you're not touching the clutch master cylinder. Just keep the hose from the brake fluid reservoir to the clutch master vertical so fluid doesn't leak out and you're golden.
Technically, I don't think you even need to bleed the rears due to Saab's wacky dual diagonal setup. Air will get trapped between the master cylinder and brake fluid distribution blocks on the firewall. When you crack the front wheels, you'll bleed that air out. No need to touch the rears. That is unless you let those first hard lines go dry. But, you should be able to get the old master out and the new one in within a couple minutes. I usually loosen the brake lines on the master cylinder, then remove the nuts on the brake booster, then finish taking off the hard lines. Install is reverse... that minimizes the time for brake fluid to leak out of the system. We're talking 1-2 minutes total "open" time.
That said, brake fluid should be changed every two years or so, and if that hasn't been done in the last two years, now is a great time. :)
posted by 12.71.42...
, Wed, 22 Jul 2009 11:44:25 <-- Viewing This Message, Wed, 22 Jul 2009 14:25:32
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