1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
hi, the power bleeder will help, extra fluid is a good idea (can't you return unopened for a refund?), once you get things going I think you will find that the old fashioned helper on the brake pedal will also help things go faster as well as give you relatively instant feedback on the brakes are working properly. helper pumps five times and holds, you crack the nipple open, pedal will go to the floor (helper stays on the pedal!) close the nipple and repeat. left rear and then right front. then right rear and left front. fronts should be very quick. power bleeder will help "prime" the system and also can keep the fluid from getting low.
Would not worry about bench bleeding the master, do pay attention on the bits that go inside the vacuum booster, make sure you point them in the way they came out.
flare wrench is very nice to have to remove the two lines from the master, 11mm I think, cheap set at the usual autoparts store about $12 or so, the 13mm nice for the clutch slave.
Use a six point deep reach socket on the nipple to keep from rounding it, if you are in the rust belt consider doing PB Blaster several days before, and then again the day before just because...
I've found the power bleeder does an *excellent* job on bleeding the clutch, and is a one man operation for that.
BTW, I am replacing a bad vacuum booster later *today* on a 1988 SPG, so will be doing all of this, as well as putting new pads in the rears, upgrading the fronts to 9000 calipers and rotors with new 9000 pads as well.
A thing to remember when you do put new pads in the rears, and you back the emergency brake hex adjuster out and it seems to get stiff and you stop, and you push the caliper open and yet it doesn't seem to open enough for the new pads, go *back* to the adjuster and bet you find it's now easy to turn so do it some more until it seems to stop, then continue pushing the caliper open until it's completely retracted. I've found that often this two step is necessary to get the caliper completely retracted to put those nice new *fat* pads in. THEN after it's all together you spin the hub by hand and snug the adjuster in until it drags and then back out 1/2 a turn or so. Remember it is a self adjuster so it will snug back up if you are close, but if you are wide open it doesn't seem to catch enough to start the self adjustment process (over a week or so).
, Wed, 22 Jul 2009 11:44:25, Wed, 22 Jul 2009 14:25:32
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