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1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
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, Tue, 5 Jan 2010 15:13:14
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If you are driving this again and it goes into shake mode. hit the brakes hard and then let off and see what happens. The wheel bearing usually starts making noises that will make the hair on the back of your neck stand up just about the time all of the bearings have been ground into dust. Also the wheel bearing is comprised of one solid outer race and two inner races with two sets of bearings in cages. Once the wheel nut on the half shaft is run down to 220+ lb/ft of torque, the inner races are held pressed up against the circlip inside the knuckle. It's not going anywhere. If the bearings wear you will hear groaning noises for along time before there is any play in the front end.
The lower ball joint is usually loaded and checking it requires blocking the upper A arm. I like to pull the two bolts on the upper ball joint and yank it out of the upper A arm. You dont't have to remove the half shaft and you don't really have to undo the boot on the inner driver (there is usually enough stretch there to get by) or do anything with the caliper or rotor either. Then you can see simply by pulling up on the knuckle/rotor/caliper assembely if there is any up and down play on the lower ball joint. there should not be any at all. If you have to change it you can use a wire coat hanger run thru the upper ball joint bolt holes and wire the whole thing to the spring to take weight off (HOWEVER you WILL have to loosen the inner boot and pry it off the receiver (it's like flippin tupperware, wont' come off unless you get under the edge and pry it up) and then just be careful of hitting the tripod bearing. Upper and lower Ball joints are the same, and same side to side too.
There is a procedure in the Bentley to check the lower Ball Joint, check it out.
Lastly, you will have to do all of the above plus remove the axle nut and axle, the caliper, the rotor (drill the torx or philips screws out if it strips, it's very soft metal you will not hurt the rotor, then use vise grips after rotor is off to unscrew the nub of threaded shaft left). Basically you will need the knuckle without brake items or axle, you could leave the ball joints attached to the knuckle but removed from the upper and lower A arms, and then get a press or take to a mechanic to press the old bearing out and press the new one it. So you would not be doing unnecessary work.
, Tue, 5 Jan 2010 15:13:14
, Tue, 5 Jan 2010 17:10:44
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