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It's not hard if you are a relatively competent DIYer. Make sure you have a Bentley. Also make sure you get a good solid set of jack stands. You'll be under the car a lot. The Townsend site also has some good info on the job.
As you disconnect things to pull the motor, make yourself a checklist so you'll be sure you put everything back and reconnect everything. This is fairly important because these projects inevitably get stretched out, and memory can be fickle. Get a few different size boxes of ziplock bags with a space to write on. As you take fasteners and small parts off, drop them in a baggie and label them with a sharpie and put them in a box or bin so they don't get lost.
Also take plenty of reference pictures of the position of things. I don't mean just a general overview snapshot of the motor. When you disconnect things like the fuel lines, oil cooler lines, and wiring harness on the DS of the motor, it can be confusing recalling how they all intertwine as they go back together as you put the motor back. If you've got another c900 around, that will be good enough reference to go and look at.
Pulling and reinstalling a motor solo can be done, but it is a whole lot easier with a helper.
Pull the dipstick out of the oil fill tube before you try to separate the motor from the tranny or it will get caught on the oil pickup and something will likely break. Or you can remove the oil fill tube completely. Be sure you get a new seal ring for it.
While you have the motor out, replace all the things that are easier to do while it's out, especially if you've got over 150K miles on the car. Now is a good time to replace all seals and the oil pump and the timing chain and guides--things like that.
If you can get your hands on one, get an extra AC compressor bracket. When you pull the motor, you disconnect the AC bracket and compressor on the motor and just flop the whole thing on top of the cabin air intake out of the way. But the AC bracket makes a good spot to connect to for hoisting the motor. (connect in two spots, the AC bracket and the hook mounted to the head so it's balanced.)
If you are buying a hoist, the Harbour Freight ones are fine. (you can find a 20%-off 1 HF item coupon by doing a google image search.) Just get some 5" rubber casters for it--also from HF. Don't use the 3" cast iron ones that come with it--they suck. The hoist is very difficult to maneuver with those wheels--especially on a driveway. The first motor I pulled I had the stock 3" CI wheels on there and two of us could barely move it. The next motor I did by myself with the 5" wheels with no problem. I had to jack the car only a little bit higher to get clearance.
Once you get the motor out and the hoist away from the car, place some doubled-up 2x4s across the bottom steel members of the hoist and lower the motor on them. Use additional blocking to level everything up. Once you remove all the clutch parts and fasteners, you can then just hoist the motor away from the tranny and then get the old tranny out of the way. At this point, remove the oil pickup from the motor (don't lose the o-ring and be sure to put it back later!). This insures that you don't mangle it while working on the motor. Lower the motor down onto the 2x4 blocking and have at it, replacing all the seals and other wear parts.
If you need to swap drivers from one tranny to another, be sure that you use the spacers that came with the tranny, swap drivers, but not spacers.
If none of this sounds intimidating, then you can do the job. :-)
posted by 64.128.17...
, Fri, 17 Dec 2010 04:11:26
, Thu, 16 Dec 2010 23:46:27
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