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C900 Bulletin Board
1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest]
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Re: brakes for 1993 900t
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Posted by turbocon86 (more from turbocon86) on Tue, 25 Oct 2011 07:38:16 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: brakes for 1993 900t, cody, Tue, 25 Oct 2011 06:51:18
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No struts on a c900, just shocks.

Are you replacing front and back shocks and brakes or just front?

Make a couple hardwood wedges (0"-3/4" X 3" long) and slide them in between the bottom of the upper control arm and the opening in the inner wheel well. Unless you have the SAAB special tool for this task.

Depending on the shocks you buy, you may need a special socket to fit the double-D fitting on top of the shock shaft to tighten it down (available at NAPA). Some shocks have a female hex at the top instead.

To get the old front shocks off, it is best to cut them--unless you are fond of contorting, struggling for an hour, tool throwing, and cursing. You need to cut off the rubber bushing at the top of the shock inside the wheel well with a utility knife and then cut the shock shaft where the bushing was. You'll need a cut-off wheel on a rotary tool to do it. The shaft is hardened steel and a hacksaw just will not do it. The lower part of the shock just has a single nut and a washer holding it on. Be sure you hit it in advance with some PB Blaster. That nut strips fairly easily.

Installing the driver's side shock will be the most difficult because access is limited on a '93. If your girlfriend has dainty hands, she will probably be able to reach in an get the upper bushing and washer on and get the nut started on the shaft. Then you'll need to get a wrench on the nut and use the proper socket (the double-D or the male hex) on top of the shock to tighten it down. I've been able to reach in near the oil filter and under the alternator with a wrench--it isn't easy. You'll need a universal joint and an extension to get the socket on to the end of the shaft to tighten it down. Hold the wrench on the nut and turn the shaft with your ratchet to tighten the nut down. You'll have to turn the shaft counter-clockwise to tighten it--opposite of the way you would have turned the nut. Clean off the crud on the lower shock mount before you install the bottom of the shock, or it will chew up the bushing in no time. A little dish soap or vaseline will help slide it on there easier.

The brakes on the front are pretty easy. Take a big screwdriver and jamb the end in between the rotor and the outside pad and pry the caliper apart slowly. This will compress the piston and open the caliper so that your new thicker pads will fit over the rotor. On the back side of the caliper are two 19mm nuts that attach the caliper to the knuckle. Remove them and you can pull he caliper and the pads off. hang the caliper from the coil spring with a piece of wire or something. Don't let it dangle by the brake hose. I always replace the rotors too when I do a brake job. They are mounted on the car with an alignment pin (10mm) and possibly a flat-head screw with a torx fitting (#40 IIRC). Sometimes the screw may not be there. And sometimes there is no way in hell you can get it off if it is. I've had to drill them out on occasion. Installation is reverse.

If you are doing the back as well, say so, and we'll walk you through that too. :-)

posted by 64.128.17...
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