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, Mon, 3 Dec 2012 23:44:32
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Mark,
1) usually those +100500% bulbs come from manufacturers, which don't know how to spell 'xenon' or 'zenon'. And their power rating are about as precise, as their grammar. The same goes for their geometry.
2) more powerful bulbs create an increased load to the wires (but as long as it's within +-20%, you're in a safe zone), but more so to the headlight reflector - which they burn out. An incandescent lamp is like... a soldering gun - it has *VERY* low efficiency and 99.99999% of its output goes out as a heat, only 0.0000001% turns into the light.
3) even if you relatively lucky to pick up Osram or Phillips bulbs which have proper geometry and true wattage specs, you'll find yourself changing these bulbs more frequently, than ordinary one. Know why? The only way to make a bulb being brighter (having fixed geometry and input voltage) is to thin the filament. And thinner the filament, the sooner it dies just on its own - while you're adding an extra stress to this little boy with all those road vibrations and on-board voltage swings.
Bottom line:
- you're (and your headlights are) still in a safe zone in terms of thermal degradation, if those 67/60W specs are true.
- you might want checking your headlights for the output beam if they still illuminate the road properly; reflector headlights - especially ones, designed for H4 bulbs - are very sensitive to bulb geometry
- the more +100500% output you gain from your bulb, the less the bulb's life. Ditto for reflector.
Good luck,
Zig
posted by 188.134.4...
, Mon, 3 Dec 2012 23:44:32
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