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, Sun, 16 Dec 2012 11:32:56
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are in fact relays. They are the last thing in the circuit the operates the actuators in the doors. The relays are essentially switches, you are just manually operating the switch when you push the contacts closed. So yes, you are proving that the actuators work and that there is good power to the relay contacts. The relays should have 4 (or maybe 6) pins, 2 of which go to the coil - this is the electromagnet that pulls the contacts together - doing what you were doing with the pencil. If you want to test the relay, apply 12v across the coil (has to be the correct polarity, otherwise the contacts will attempt to "push apart" - no harm done, just won't work), and the contacts should click together. I strongly suspect that your relays are OK and the problem lies upstream in the circuitry that controls when the coil is on/off.
The circuitry triggers the coil upon the change of state in the switch from the driver's door lock - the coil is activated for some short period of time, like 2 seconds or so, if I recall - this activates the actuators in the doors/trunk for 2 seconds, which is ideally long enough for them to do their job. Also, there is a "lockout" type function that will disable the whole works if you activate the locks quickly too many times in a row - this is to avoid overheating the actuators in the doors, I think. It resets on its own after 20 or 30 seconds or something like that.
Still, best bet is to try reflowing the solder joints. In theory, you could use a voltmeter/oscilloscope to trace the circuit to the point of failure, but its most likely a joint has failed and not one of the few components on the board.
Hope that helps...
posted by 66.220.252...
, Sat, 15 Dec 2012 08:02:39, Sat, 15 Dec 2012 09:17:51
, Sun, 16 Dec 2012 10:36:54, Sat, 15 Dec 2012 13:16:50, Sun, 16 Dec 2012 11:32:56, Mon, 17 Dec 2012 11:55:13
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