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The n/a doesn't have a knock sensor Posted by vvack0matic [Email] (#1443) [Profile/Gallery] (more from vvack0matic) on Sat, 22 Dec 2012 08:36:32 In Reply to: Re: what degree is your motor timed at, Cary, Sat, 22 Dec 2012 07:34:54 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
The amm isn't that accurate, and wouldn't notice a thing being the motor at idle would be the same as it is now with the 15degree retard and the vacuum advance it wouldn't play any-roll while the car is boosting. The 15 degree motor timing set isn't just pulled out of the air it is what every 2.0 turbo is set at if the motor has the distributor from a turbo car it will carry the vacuum advance on it, this is for when a motor goes under boost it will pre- ignite the spark-plugs, creating the extra horse power for boost. Timing the n/a motor at a 15degree retard and not equipping the vacuum advance... I don't think the motor will even run.
With the motor timed at 15defrees with the vacuum advance your timing will read normal at idle,.. its when the turbo builds air pressure in the motor psi raises in the vacuum advance and it will start to retard the motor timing to 15degrees(while in boost) making the plugs fire earlier in the up travel of the pistons creating the maximum hp. firing the plugs when the motor is at normal timing for an n/a motor in boost the plugs would fire with the pistons very near the top of their stroke creating little to no effect in hp.
Your comment on pulling 15degree out of the air only tells me you know absolutely nothing about turbo motors and quite frankly I don't have time to teach. The poster is wanting to equip a turbo unit to a n/a I gave them the best chance for success. They can do what ever they want,
There will not be any safety catches on the motor like fuel cut off, knock sensor, over boost protection switch, the motor will boost till it blows,.. one doesn't need any safety anyhow.. I been running with out them forever, save the knock sensor that is
Its would be a true monster that's for sure, will it work.. I never done it because its far more easier to just drop in a 2.0 turbo motor
As for fuel, the object is to have the maximum fuel one can have in a motor at full boost, full throttle on an n/a motor is set at a specific amount, and these settings are far to little of fuel being pumped in at full boost. which is why oem injectors for the turbo and 3.0 fuel bar are needed to create more fuel flow.
That the rub on these cars, at idle the car uses to much fuel and if cut back its not enough in full boost.
gtg later
posted by 69.244.22...
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