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pedal looks fine, here's how I bleed the clutch
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Posted by DET17 [Email] (#1254) [Profile/Gallery] (more from DET17) on Fri, 22 Mar 2013 09:24:03 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: used a moto bleeder, Roger D [Profile/Gallery] , Fri, 22 Mar 2013 08:57:12
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Learned this 10 years ago right here, from a guy who was an aviation mechanic. Claimed this method is used on aircraft worldwide...it works!

Buy a NEW# low cost oil can, the "pump type" with pivoting pull handle to push oil out of the nozzle. I bought an under $10 metal can at any autoparts store. Then add to the end of the hose a piece of rubber hose (reinforced) which is the correct ID to fit over the tip of the bleeder at the slave, and it must match your oil can nozzle tip. I dual clamped mine both ends with those baby hose clamps. Buy brake fluid compatible hose if you can find it (NAPA has I believe).

Crack the slave bleeder about 1/8 turn open...too much won't work as the DOT 3/4 fluid leaks past the bleeder. On at least one SAAB clutch I had to put teflon tape on the bleeder screw to seal it from leaking by while cracked. From memory, a 1/4 turn of the bleeder is too much....you might find the "sweet spot" right between them. You can "feel the fluid flow" at this location, with some resistance when you pump the oil can.

Fill your oil can with NEW DOT 3/4 fluid (never use old, hygroscopic). Take a trekking pole or other adjustable extension, and hold the clutch pedal down...not TOO the floor, but close to full stroke. I used the driver seatback rest adjust to load the trekking pole handle "just right", but not hard to the FLOOR. Remove cap from your master cylinder fluid reservoir. Start pumping the oil can with DOT 3/4 and you then are pushing brake fluid from the slave all the way back up to the reservoir. If you have a helper pumping, you can look in the reservoir and actually see the fluid coming back into it with each oil can stroke. It usually takes almost one full oil can to bleed the whole system.....once I had to use a 2nd can to confirm. Of course, you must tighten the slave bleeder closed if you need to remove your oil can and refill. Make sure on the last stroke of the can, still pump handle closed, you close the slave bleeder before you release the oil can pump handle.

This method has worked for me 100% of the time. I've tried the Schrader valve installed thru the brake master reservoir cap with mixed results. This one gets it done every time.....I'll use it soon when I put my new clutch into the 91 Convert. Good luck, and of course YMMV! 

_______________________________________
DET17
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