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How to get at and probe EZK leads:
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Posted by RayF (more from RayF) on Thu, 12 Mar 2015 07:55:38 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: No start... Ive done some work, Dave, Wed, 11 Mar 2015 10:33:13
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Dave - -

I just dealt with this while tackling a no-start on my '89 NA in late January.

Here's from my post on here of Jan. 31:

"Someone posting on here wondered how to probe the wires to the EZK since there's a hard plastic boot over the connector. Here's how:

Remove EZK from fender (2 torx bolts down from top lip of outer fender). Unclip and swivel multiplug off EZK. Remove (#1 Phillips) short screw on back shoulder of plastic hood at one end. Pry off and pull up rubber boot between plastic hood and wire loom, and try to slide it up the wire loom some. Nip off and throw away the zip tie holding wire loom onto the plastic hood.

Then multiplug block will pry out of the plastic hood. (I used needlenose pliers to tug it from a plastic prong at each end.) It comes out far enough to reveal the wires entering, clearly labeled by number. Meter probes easily stick in alongside each crimp connector where you need to test it.

Plug block into EZK, dangling loose. Turn ignition on. Probe from #10 to #4 for 10 volts more or less. Probe from #10 to #24, ignition on, then jack up driver wheel, put car in gear, pull plugs so you aren't fighting compression, and turn wheel which will turn engine over slowly. As the shutter opening passes the Hall sensor, voltage should jump sharply up, then back to near zero. It did so, very reliably, then after I put plugs back in I tried motor, but definitely no start. I put a timing light on it too, actually on the coil to distributor HT lead in case there were some fault with the rotor or cap, but definitely no spark."

Reassembly is reverse of opening it up. Don't lose that little Phillips screw. Don't bother with a zip tie on reassembly.

I never did figure out why I wasn't seeing spark, maybe I just didn't have the timing light clamps on the battery well enough. Because,I ended up tracking my no-start down to a defective ECU, it was sensitive to cold and on the worst mornings would fail to send the pulse signals to the fuel injectors. Removing it from car and warming it in the house worked for the coldest days. Now that spring is almost here I'm not so worried, been starting fine.

Mine is a 5 speed, so I could use the wheel to turn the motor over easily. If yours is an automatic, you can't do that. But you can use a "bump" switch clipped onto starter terminals to jog it, or there's a way to jumper from one hole to another in the round connector alongside the fuses to bump the starter.

Good luck.

posted by 71.173.80...


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