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Re: Slow window syndrome-- update 1 Saabers Like This Post! Posted by Arabiflora [Email] (#1129) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Arabiflora) on Sun, 6 Jan 2019 01:49:18 In Reply to: Slow window syndrome, Arabiflora [Profile/Gallery] , Wed, 2 Jan 2019 19:35:36 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
So I went at the windows today starting with the driver's side (DS). Pulling the interior panel was easy; pulling the brittle gray plastic shell beneath to gain access to the window lift assembly was a challenge due to the surplus of old monkey-shit adhesive but I managed it with some strategic scissor cuts (to get around the latch release assembly. I used duck tape later to mend those cuts and all others incurred in the process of removing the window drive assembly.
As I would only later recognize (when I finally turned to the PS window R&R), I was very happy that, although slow, the DS window could be powered down to enable access to the two screws that hold the window frame to the support bar. I removed them and then slid the window to full up position and secured it there by using-- you guessed it-- 3 strips of duck tape wrapped over the upper door frame.
I then located and removed the 10 mm bolts that hold the lift assembly to the inside of the DS door frame. As suggested by the TwinSaabs "Slow Window Syndrome" how-to guide cited upthread, I managed to lift the assembly out of the door frame bottom first and, after hassling with and fretting about the latch assembly actuator rod, I was able to remove it all, and take it to the bench for cleanup following a quick spray of brake cleaner fluid over the garbage can to loosen the congealed bits of grease that covered the travelling bits of the assembly.
I benchmarked the power and performance of the up/down assembly at the bench by rigging connections between the motor and an old 12V battery I had at hand. It was definitely stiff but pretty functional. I used a wire brush to remove old grease and rusty spots in the travel of movable joints, wiped it down, and applied a generous layer of Lubriplate ("The Modern Lubricant") grease to those adjoining faces. I used the battery connection to run the assembly up and down a few times and my efforts seemed to have softened up the articulation of parts. I also applied a few drops of 90w gear lube to the shaft that drives the spinning cogwheel out of the motor to the lift assembly as well as to the coiled spring tensioner and I think that those had a useful effect, as well.
Reassembly/re installation of the window drive assembly into the DS door frame was a bit difficult, primarily owing to the limited travel afforded between the door itself and the window motor, but I eventually got it done and bolted into place. A warning to all who may enter this realm: DO NOT snug each bolt down until all have been seated and started. You're going to need the play to get all the mounting bolt/bolt holes in alignment. One useful thing that I did upon disassembly was to mark the near (cabin-side) electrical connection with a blue sharpie so I could be sure that up at the switch is up at the window and i got it right.
End of this chapter: It's all good, the DS window goes up, she goes down, and fully back up again when I want and that makes me... happy. Or at least I used to be until I turned my attention to the passenger side (PS) door for R&R. But that's a story for another day, I'll keep you posted.
Scott
->Posting last edited on Sun, 6 Jan 2019 04:26:40.
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