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Re: 86 9000 Turbo - heating issues, etc.
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Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Thu, 13 Feb 2003 08:19:16 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: 86 9000 Turbo - heating issues, etc., RedSkunk, Wed, 12 Feb 2003 18:03:52
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Heating-
The issue with heater cores is that they develop small leaks, filling the cabin with the smell of hot coolant. They still throw heat. It sounds like one of two things - either the blower motor isn't working, or the heat mixture flap is stuck. It sounds like no blower motor. You can have the hottest core in the world, but if you don't blow air over it, it won't help.
As for the ACC self-test, when you first enter it, it shows 88 on the display as it runs the test. You should hear servos running, and the fan speed changing. After about 40 seconds the 88 should disappear and you'll see a single digit - that's the number of faults. A 0 means no faults found. 1 or more is the number of faults. Press VENT to read out the faults, one by one. Press any other key to exit the test mode.

Don't expect the self-test to catch every possible fault. It only can catch some of them.

Try manually selecting the blower speed. If you get nothing but HI speed (3), then the blower motor resistor pack is blown - pretty easy to fix. If you can't get the blower motor to blow, then there's a good chance that the blower motor is shot. It does happen.

If the blower motor does blow, but you get no heat, write back, and we can talk air mix flap.

As to the battery, "The battery light never went out" tells the whole story. The alternator isn't charging the battery. When driving, you should see the light out, and voltages of 13.0 volts or higher. 10.4 volts is a fine cranking voltage, but it's a lousy running voltage. Normally, the alternator provides all the electrical power requirements of the car, AND provides power to recharge the battery from starting. In order to charge the battery, the alternator needs to put out a voltage higher than the normal battery voltage of 12.6 volts. Your alternator wasn't charging the battery, and the battery was providing all the power requirements of the car. You can do this for a while, depending on how good the battery is, and what loads (headlights, brakelights, etc) you have. I've run a car for 20-30 minutes, but at some point the engine will just die.

Find out why the alternator isn't charging. I assume the serpentine belt is there - if it wasn't you'd have no power steering or water pump, and the engine would have overheated by now. But as Trobinson9kT said, chances are it's a bad voltage regualtor. But get it checked - I've had a blown diode in the alternator, and that will give the same symptom. If it's a blown diode, you might as well drop in a rebuilt alternator. I've gotten 115A rebuilts for about $130 mail order (the stock is 80Amps and I don't recommend it - and they're only about $20 less).

Chances are that rattle is either the AC idler pulley (under the AC compressor), or the compressor itself. I'd just remove the idler pulley, because I assume the AC compressor died a while back. The idler pulley unbolts easily.

As to the noises, get the charging system fixed first, or you'll have NO sound to worry about. Then go through the car. It's pretty obvious that the previous owner didn't put a lot of maintenance into it, so there's probably a whole host of issues. I'd check every air hose - probably a bad hose, or maybe the hose to the air filter box is off. Heck, how do you know there is an air filter? Intake systems make a lot of noise, and an air filter actually quiets that down.

posted by 192.249.4...
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