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Easily done
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Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Mon, 23 Jan 2006 04:33:12 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Upper Engine Mount, RicardoF, Sat, 21 Jan 2006 22:32:52
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The upper bushing isn't under any tension or compression. It is only there to dampen motor movement when the engine is loaded (running and in gear). Translation - you can just pull the bolts out without having to jack the engine. You may end up needing to use a big screwdriver to move the bushing the last 1/4 inch or so, so the bolt goes in, but it's easily done.

I've never had to remove the fuel rail. The most I ever needed to do was on a '97, where the hose on the fuel pressure regulator was dangerously close to the bushing when using the tool. I simply loosened the clamp on the device and rotated it a few degrees.

I haven't seen the instructions, but I'm sure they're good. The task requires two wrenches - one to hold one bolt head/nut steady while you turn the other. The idea is to use the threaded rod to pull the old bushing out, and the new bushing in. You'll find a fat washer that is just slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the bracket that holds the bushing. If you look at the bushing, you'll see that it is a metal outside ring, with rubber and an inside ring. The big washer will rest on the OUTSIDE ring of the bushing. Then you take the big collar and have it rest on the bracket that holds the bushing. You set up the tool differently for extracting the bushing than putting it in.

Getting the old bushing out is usually uneventful. If it just doesnt' seem to want to come, don't force it with the tool. Instead, get yourself a hacksaw. Disconnect one end of the blade, and feed it through one of the gaps in the rubber of the bushing. Reconnect the hacksaw, and saw through JUST the outer portion (metal ) of the bushing. Try to avoid sawing into the bracket (but just a scratch is OK). Then move the saw and make another cut 1/8 ot 1/4 (not critical) of an inch away. I then pop that sliver out with a screwdriver. After that, the bushing comes out easily with the tool.

Of course, one of the bushings comes with the 'dogbone'. Do that one on a workbench. If you did ding up the inside of the bracket, sand it smooth with sandpaper. You don't want even the smallest imperfection on the inside of the bracket.

Some bushings go in easily, some will fight like mad. Always make sure the inside of the bracket is smooth, and I even smooth the outside of the bushing with sandpaper. I like to put the bushing in the freezer for a couple of hours - it contracts with the cold and may fit better.

If the bushing goes in easily by hand - it happens, so I've heard, but never had the luck to experience - great. No matter what, if the bushing starts to go in even a little bit cocked - DON'T FORCE IT. The bushing will create a berm in the soft metal of the bracket, and it will never go in. The tool works when the bushing goes in OK - it doesn't have the capability to force in a bushing that's cocked (I know this from unfortunate experience).

If the bushing just isn't going in, you do have an option - take it to a machine shop. They can push it in with a press for very little money. Frankly, that's how I do it now, having had a string of bad luck with doing it myself with the tool. But that's just me - others have done well. OK - if you do that, you do need to remove the upper bracket from the engine block. It's held on by 3 bolts (depends on the year), and will require taking the belt(s) off and tilting the alternator. Yes, a lot of work, but it's always nice to know you have a way out!

Lastly - always line the bushings up so that the open part is at the sides, and the filled in part is up and down (front bushing). For the rear bushing, the CLOSED parts should be pointing towards the sides of car. The idea is to have the bushings flex in the direction the engine moves (forward and back). If you get it wrong it isn't the end of the world, but depending on your particular car, it may have more vibration at idle.

posted by 192.249....
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