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I think your fan is just fine Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Tue, 13 May 2008 15:22:46
In Reply to: Re: They share components, but..., tbellisario, Tue, 13 May 2008 05:13:35 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Letting the car idle, the coolant temperature will increase, and the first thing it does is trip the low speed circuit and the fan comes on (at low speed). It doesn't look low - it's pretty quick. It will cycle on and off, all on the low speed circuit. It only kicks on the high speed circuit if things are really, really hot.
Another hint is that you haven't mentioned blowing up radiator fan fuses. If the low speed circuit wasn't working, the fan would try and start on Hi. That takes a lot of current, and typically blows the 30 amp fuse. This happens when the low speed relay isn't working or the series resistor has failed open.
So really, I think your radiator fan is working just fine.
Now, if your refrigerant pressure is low, the AC compressor will be kept off. The best way to determine if the pressure is low is to have someone hook up a pressure gauge (i.e. Mechanic). If you really want to check yourself, I recommend you DON'T do it that way. Instead, find the receiver/dryer, which is located under the coolant expansion tank. Yes, this isn't going to be easy. The car is OFF. Look for a switch on the side of the receiver/dryer (cylinder stuck in the side) with wires coming out that come out to a 4 pin connector. Disconnect the connector, and with a meter, measure the resistance between pins 1 and 2. You can tell because pin 1 is yellow/white, and 2 is green/white. Or put it this way, 1 and 2 are the striped wires; 3 and 4 are solid colors.
If you measure continuity (a few ohms), the switch says the pressure is good. If you measure an open circuit, the switch could be failed (not likely but possible) or low refrigerant pressure (likely).
If you measure continuity, you will need to keep electrical troubleshooting to determine where the problem is. That'll require an electrical schematic and a sheep. OK, at least the schematic.
I'll bet you'll find the switch shows an open. If so, find a mechanic that knows AC systems. The good news is that in '93 they switched to the non R-12 systems, so the refrigerant is (relatively) cheap. If they do recharge the system, pay a few extra bucks to have them put in dye. If the system is low, the refrigerant leaked out. Now, it could be a slow leak over a decade or so, and the pressure dropped low very slowly, and just fell below the switch limit. In that case, a re-charge will likely last a long time (years). But if you've got a leak, you'll be back to square one in a few days. The dye will help them trace the leak.
posted by 76.219.8...
, Mon, 12 May 2008 17:33:53, Tue, 13 May 2008 15:22:46 <-- Viewing This Message
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