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More questions Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Wed, 11 Mar 2009 10:31:16 In Reply to: Electrical question, Avispex, Wed, 11 Mar 2009 09:58:50 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
When you were driving, was the BATTERY light on? If you hit the INFO button until volts showed up on the EDU, what did it read?
Of course, that was then and this is now, and if you didn't notice, asking now is of little help. But check the next time you drive the car.
If the BAT light is on, that's a problem with the voltage regulator, and things would be dim. If the BAT light is off, see what the EDU voltage is. When the car is underway, it should be at least 13.0 volts, preferably about 13.4 or more with the engine above idle. This isn't the voltage when you first start the car - put it into gear and drive.
It probably isn't a battery issue. Once the engine is running, the battery is just dead weight. The alternator provides all the power necessary to run the engine, lights, and accessories, and to charge the battery.
If the EDU voltage is above 13.0 volts when driving around, then the alternator is working just fine and the battery is being charged. What you saw might have just been jitters after leaving the lights on.
HOWEVER - if you see less than 13.0 volts on the EDU - like 12.6 or so, then there is an issue. It is possible that in leaving the lights on, you also had the key in the ON position (I don't know any other way to leave the headlights on). The Battery light would be on in this case. If the Battery light burned out (it's designed to be on for a second or two, not hours at a time), then the alternator wouldn't be charging, and you'll have been running just on the battery. You can do that for a while, but not long. The sign of that would be an EDU voltage of well under 13.0 volts when the car was moving (engine revs at at least 2K rpm).
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