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Re: 96 electrical issues Posted by sam96CS [Email]  (#852) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from sam96CS) on Mon, 3 Aug 2009 15:07:51
In Reply to: 96 electrical issues, tz, Mon, 3 Aug 2009 13:17:58 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Sorry, no single easy fix that solves all those problems, although the interior lights and door locks are related.
Take #3 off your list, the hazard switch is off when it is in and on when it is out. Yes, that is counterintuitive. The plastic ring around the switch is old and fragile, and it is part of what holds the switch in place. Push in the button too hard, and you'll break the ring and have to get a replacement switch.
The alarm horn is not the same as the horn that sounds when you push the steering wheel hub. Under the hood in front of the battery is a large fuse box. Just in front of the fuse box and below it you might find a blue plastic electrical connector with two wires (yellow and black) coming out of it. The wires are routed up to a black plastic grommet in the fender. I disconnected this blue connector recently to spray in some electrical contract cleaner. The alarm system went off with lights flashing but NOT the horn. My alarm horn works, so I think it is powered by the yellow and black wires. Make sure your blue plastic electrical connector is together. That won't necessarily solve the problem, but it is worth a look.
Interior lights: Leave this issue alone until you fix the power door lock issue. The interior lights run off of fuse #16, the same fuse that serves the power door locks. When this fuse dies you have no interior lights, no power door locks and no backup light.
Power door locks: Operate each door lock knob by hand. Are any of them hard to operate? Sticky lock mechanisms stress the power door lock actuators which in turn can either die or blow a fuse. Some say you can spray a lubricant through the child safety lock lever opening in the back doors. Having taking a rear door panel off, I have my doubts about how effective this is. If you have a lock knob that is hard to operate, then you need to take the door panel off and have a look. Not a fun job. Look up door panel in the search window at the top of this page for messages about this chore. I'm sure you'll find step-by-step procedures. Get rid of the friction, replace any dead lock actuators, replace the fuse and (BEFORE you re-assemble the door) verify that you've fixed the problem. With any luck you've also fixed the interior lights. New actuators are expensive, but used ones are more reasonable and plentiful.
High beams: Under the hood in front of the battery is a large fuse box. Inside it is a large red headlight relay and a large orange lamp control relay. The lamp control relay is where I'd start. Remove it and use a multimeter to check the resistance between the pins marked 56a and 56aR (high beam right side) and between 56a and 56aL (high beam left side). There should be no resistance. If you find high resistance, then you've isolated the problem. Inside Saab relays are circuit boards, and the pins are soldered to the boards. Given enough time, vibration, heat cycles and corrosion, the solder joints crack. With a small soldering iron (25 watt) you can often re-flow the solder and the relay will be about as good as new. When my high beams died, 56a was the culprit. No problems since I re-flowed 56a, and that was maybe 2 years ago. If the lamp control relay is good, then check the solder joints (magnifying glass helps) of the red headlight relay. I'm assuming you've already checked fuses and the light bulbs.
You're doing the right thing to identify your electrical problem and work on fixing them. You aren't having any problems that haven't been documented at this board. The search window is your friend.
, Mon, 3 Aug 2009 15:07:51 <-- Viewing This Message
, Mon, 3 Aug 2009 13:33:45
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