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It should be lit as long as the engine cranks Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Sun, 30 Aug 2009 18:58:28
In Reply to: Trionic no-start checklist question on Crank Position ., John Fitzgerald   [Profile/Gallery]
, Sat, 29 Aug 2009 19:15:49
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There are additional test you can do before replacing the sensor-
If you can get to the connector, disconnect it, and measure across pins 1 and 2 on the sensor - it should be 540 ohms, +/- 55 ohms. Since this requires digging into the engine, if you can get to the Trionic box connector, pull it off, and use an ohm meter to read between pins 41 and 66 - that connects to the sensor. You are measuring the wiring, too. If the sensor is outside the range (less than 485, greater than 595 ohms), replace it.
If the sensor resistance is OK, pull the sensor out, and look to see if there are metal filings on the sensor. If so, clean them off. Inside you'll see a shutter wheel - GENTLY pry at it with a screwdriver to see that it is firmly connected. Just a little pressure to see if it wobbles. Turn the engine over and see that the wheel doesn't wobble or skew. If the wheel is off, the engine needs to be taken apart - not a happy thing.
There are other wiring things to check - make sure the wiring seems in good shape. But if you can get to the connector pins, check the resistance.
posted by 192.249.47...
, Sat, 29 Aug 2009 19:15:49, Sun, 30 Aug 2009 18:58:28 <-- Viewing This Message, Mon, 31 Aug 2009 11:12:41
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