1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
On the surface this sounds like a known issues with the older year 9000 no CRANK issue.
The 10,000 overview is that the cumulative resistance in the starter, switch, wiring and god knows what else... means that the voltage to the yellow wire on the solenoid for the starter is not sufficient to get the solenoid to do it's business, that is to push +12v dc battery via an internal solenoid to the starter AND to push the starter gear out to engage the flywheel. it's just not pushing enough amperage to that guy to make him pop... to much resistance is eating the amps... E=I*R for the old guys... Increase R and E stays the same... I goes... down...
The general symptoms are as follows and in no particular order of significance either, remember this is CRANKING OR NOT CRANKING: the car never seems to have a start issue when cold; it may not want to restart after running, but will start later after cooled off; sometimes you can turn the key 12 times and it will start on the 12th try, sometimes on the 4th; if you replace the battery it seems happy for a while but eventually has the issue again; you (horrors!) paid to have the starter switch replaced per suggestion, and it worked well for awhile; you had the starter replaced with similar results....
A test would be to do the following. Make or purchase about a 4 foot length of 16 gauge wire with a clip on one end that will attach to the battery, the other end with a similar clip.
If you are not comfortable under the hood of a running engine, HAVE SOMEONE ELSE THAT IS DO THIS.... you need that jumper wire, a flashlight, and a short probe (thin screwdriver works fine). Carry this with you as this is the "test" kit. suggest that you look for the starter and the yellow wire on it "before" and when the engine is cold. find the oil dipstick and sight down it and towards the right side of the car you will see the starter, the solenoid is attached to it. there will be a large gauge red wire bolted to the starter and a much smaller yellow (or spicy mustard color) wire with a female white or translucent spade connector pushed onto a male connector on the solenoid. THIS IS YOUR TARGET.
Procedure. when the failure occurs, pull that yellow wire off the solenoid by tugging on the spade connector. turn the car to the run position at the key... Carefully (think like you are doing a battery jump to start the car, same idea) attach that jumper to the +12 on the battery, then clip the other end onto that probe or screwdriver AND you want to touch that to the male spade connector on the solenoid that you just uncovered by removing that yellow wire...
If it cranks and starts, I have a document with pictures to show you exactly how to fix this so that it never is an issue again... it's about $30 in parts, less if you have some of the stuff laying around... takes a couple of hours and you will forget you ever had this issue. My wife has !
If it does Not crank. this was not the issue... sorry.
I have fixed five cars with this issue, and expect that at some point my 94 or 96 Aeros will need it done too...
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