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Re: Retorquing Head Bolts on the 2.3L Posted by sam96CS [Email]  (#852) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from sam96CS) on Tue, 14 Aug 2012 15:04:51
In Reply to: Retorquing Head Bolts on the 2.3L, DanaH, Tue, 14 Aug 2012 13:39:14 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
There has been some debate about whether HB's should be retorqued or replaced. Also, how much torque depends on whether you have the earlier or later generation of HB's. You probably have the later generation which has a loose washer. Torque specs for both generations as follows:
Old: 60 Nm (44 lbf ft), 80 Nm (59 lbf ft), 90 degrees.
New: 40 Nm (26 lbf ft), 60 Nm (44 lbf ft), 90 degrees.
Anders knows a lot about HB's, so look for his posts.
The new style bolt has been regarded with some suspicion. I have no experience with the new bolt and no opinion about it. Both generations of bolts are still available. To find the old style bolt, search for part number 5955794_vic_CA4918F1 or W0133-1641586.
I concluded that replacing is safer than retorqueing and did it about 25,000 miles ago, replacing old style with old style. I hoped this would stop or slow the weeping near the #10 bolt (right front corner of the engine). I didn't make it any better, and I didn't make it any worse. If I knew then what I know now I would have left it alone.
If you are unimpressed with the new style distributor plug, then you can replace it with the old style from a '94 or earlier 9k. It consists of the these parts:
PN 30539721 is the plug.
PN 7519143 is the o-ring ("Sealing Ring").
PN 8362287 is the slingshot-shaped bracket that holds the plug.
PN 9166323 is the screw that holds the bracket.
Knock out the old plug from the inside (don't even try to loosen the tamper-proof bolts, they're stuck for life), install the above parts, and no more leak. Very easy to do.
, Tue, 14 Aug 2012 15:04:51 <-- Viewing This Message, Tue, 14 Aug 2012 16:53:22
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