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Been there, done that
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Posted by Noel [Email] (more from Noel) on Wed, 17 Oct 2012 07:05:17 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Great to hear!, davidk, Tue, 16 Oct 2012 20:29:28
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On our since departed '95 CS the car had been jacked incorrectly one time too many and had the bulge in the floor and the split in the metal. So I did much as davidk suggests. Here's my approach:

Pull up the carpet and hold it out of the way.

I used a small sledge and short bit of 2x4 to pound the floor back into (more or less) the correct shape. I sealed the crack with JB Weld, then cut some aluminum flashing and bedded it into place with a load of JB Weld. Most of the flashing is covered with the epoxy. Be sure to clean the floor surface so the epoxy will stick better. I used the metal because I figured the epoxy might crack over time and I wanted something else in the way to avoid leaks. Instead of flashing, you could rivet or weld a piece of sheetmetal in place and seal that with JB or other epoxy, but that's much more work. Flashing is nice because you can bend it to fit. Strength is really not the goal here, unless you want a bulletproof repair.

Underneath, I used more JB Weld to seal the split from the elements on the outside. This seals the bottom and makes up for the fact that the inside job will probably not make a perfect seal. Do more than just fill the gap to make sure it's really sealed up.

After that had set fully (48 hours) I hit the underside with two coats of spray-on undercoating, overlapping the repaired area.

The car was being sold anyway, so I didn't do quite as good a job as I would have if I were keeping the car, but I'd do the same thing again on a keeper with a bit more care. And I warned the buyer that he should not use the jacking points when working on the car--just as Saab recommends.

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