1969-1984 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
[Main Saab Model 99 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Re: Rebuilt my WUR Posted by Gary Stottler [Email] (#1463) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Gary Stottler) on Thu, 18 Mar 2021 05:41:20 In Reply to: Rebuilt my WUR, LJB, Wed, 17 Mar 2021 19:37:26 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Thanks very much, that's a great source! I had seen the rebuild kits for fuel distributors before but not for the CPR/WUR, so I'm happy to see this and am going to order one to try it out.
A couple of thoughts on overall engine tuning - we've all had enough CIS experiences to suspect the fuel system right off the bat when an engine is not running quite right. But I've also learned to check the basics first - surprising how often something else is wrong too.
First, I like to check compression and valve clearances. Especially on older Turbo engines valve seat wear is pretty common. Also check the valve timing while you have the valve cover off to make sure your timing chain has not stretched. Not very common, but worth looking at.
Next, ignition timing. Especially since it's common that the mechanical advance mechanism inside the distributor gets seized up due to lack of lubrication/corrosion/dirt. Distributors are pretty easy to rebuild/get rebuilt.
Now line pressure and control pressure per your excellent instructions. My only other thought is on Lambda cars try to aim the warm pressure more towards the middle of the range so they system isn't running all the way at one end of it's adjustment range.
You didn't mention it, but I now is the point to set the mixture. On a Lambda car just get the pulse relation meter so it's oscillating in the middle of the range, between 30-70%. I recommend a new oxygen sensor, they are cheap and easy and can cause weird behavior. On a non-lambda car, I lean out the mixture until I can hear the idle start to get a little ragged and then go back rich a quarter turn.
The very final step is to adjust the idle speed - make sure to use the 10mm bolt with jamb nut, not the throttle plate screw!
When everything is set up right the old Saab "B" engines really run well!
Best, Gary
_______________________________________ Gary Stottler
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.