1969-1984 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Carlise was great! I didn't take my 99 though, I recently purchased a 9000 Aero so I took that, however blasphemous that may have been...
Regarding the points that have been made:
1) I agree, a matched set of water pump shaft and jackshaft that have been working happily together in the past will most likely continue work happily together. Putting in a new water pump shaft with your old jackshaft is fraught.
2) Jimmy is right, if you pull the engine out and fix everything at once that makes it easy, but that seems like a lot of scope creep if the problem truly is "just" a bad water pump.
3) Doug's recollection of the breakpoints for the three types of water pumps is pretty good as far as I recall. I think that they changed in mid-1975 and either the type I blocks (brass cage) or the type II blocks (steel 8-tooth gears) were identified with a paint spot on the block, I forget which was which. Of course the paint spots are long gone now, so beware of getting a 1975 block and finding out you have the wrong one. '77 and later all had the type III (12-tooth) pumps. But I doubt you need a new block.
I recall removing a water pump in which I had broken off the threaded part entirely by tapping the two smaller holes in the impeller, putting bolts in there, and then (extremely carefully!!!) pulling it out.
What I would recommend here is to do something like that and then have a machine shop possibly recut the (left handed) threads on the shaft - maybe to a smaller size, although having broken one off I'm not sure if making it smaller will allow for the needed torque. You will need to go to a machine shop anyway to get the sealing surface on your impeller machined.
Whatever you end up doing, the imperative is to not put any torque or side load on the gears between the water pump shaft and the jackshaft.
Not fun, but you can work through it I am sure.
Best,
Gary
posted by 67.253.15...
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