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Don't put synthetic motor oil in your transmission. Synthentic motor oils are designed to be slippery and therefore your synchros won't work that well because they won't have the required amout of friction. The same goes for 10-30 dyno motor oil. Most 10-30 dyno motor oil has friction modifiers in it which will also be too slippery for your synchros. I've found that most 10-40 dyno motor oil doesn't have those friction modifiers so thats what I've stated using (eventually I may switch to a synthetic gear oil that doesn't meet the GL-4 or GL-5 ratings - those ratings mean the gear oils are too slippery for synchros). I haven't tried it in the cold yet but I think it wouldn't be any worse than having a tranny with friction modifiers in the oil. You can tell if the oil has friction modifiers by looking at the front of the bottle. There is a round "seal of approval" type logo on the bottle, if the round mark has a sunburst look (you can sort of see it here: http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/zoomwindow.asp?PN=VV129) then it means the oil meets an ILSAC GF-X (X being a number between 1 and 5) rating - which is usually listed on the back of the bottle. The ILSAC GF ratings means that the oil has friction modifiers. So stay away from oil with friction modifiers if you want to have good shifting capabilities. Sometimes you can find generic 10-30 motor oils without the friciton modifiers. Another choice might be desil motor oils as these don't have friction modifiers.
I wouldn't ever put a gear oil in my tranny until I was sure that it contains what I want. Gear oils have special additives which make the oil cling to the parts in the tranny. When you drain it out and put in motor oil, the motor oil dosen't mix with the gear oil and you're basically left with a thin layer of lubricant (from the gear oil) on your vital transmission parts - the motor oil will no longer lubricate the transmission because the thin layer of gear oil is blocking it while not providing enough lubrication.
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