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Re: Doug, I was looking at the engine photo Posted by DougM [Email]  (#211)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from DougM) on Thu, 16 Nov 2006 18:37:21
In Reply to: Doug, I was looking at the engine photo, Gery, Thu, 16 Nov 2006 16:50:37 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
alternator: sanded with a fine grit sandpaper, then buffed with a wool pad and rubbing compound. Same with the distributor and coolant overflow tank(though the tank is brass, not aluminum, but it still polishes just fine)
intake manifold: burnished back in 1989. Burnishing involved sticking the manifold in a washing machine type of device with a soap solution and little flying saucer like metal pieces, then spinning it to polish it. It has held up really well considering it was done 17 years ago.
Some of the engine brackets were nickel plated back in '89(I had a connection at Invacare> a place that makes wheelchairs, so they had the equipment to do the plating)
exhaust manifold and battery heat shield: was cerma-chromed, though it has not held up well at all. What do you want for $125? On the 75's rusty header, I sanded it down with 80 grit then applied POR15's grey manifold paint with a brush. It flowed out really nice once the header got to operating temp, just like the directions on the can said it would.
engine block: stripped of all accessories, degreased, sanded with various grits of sandpaper, degreased again with wax and grease remover, then painted with an off the shelf enamel(banner red), but not high heat. No pealing, but the paint lost some of its gloss. I have since replaced that block, but painted the new one with the exact same paint. The 75's block used the same prep process, but I did use a high temp(500 degree only) paint on it(dupli-color chrysler industrial red, which looked a bit orangish)
miscellaneous aluminum pieces: a high speed die grinder with a fine wire wheel does wonders for removing oxidation, and polishes at the same time. The die grinder/wire wheel also works well on rusty bolt heads, but if they are not coated with something, they will just rust again later.
headlight buckets, radiator core support, valve cover: I have a blasting cabinet here, and I can also sandblast big stuff in the grass out back. I blasted those pieces to bare metal, then primed, then painted them using the same paint that I used to paint the outside of the black EMS, and the soccerball wheels > PPG DCC 9300 acrylic urethane. The paint is very durable when it cures, and stays shiny for years....ten times better than a spray bomb can.
73's chrome valve cover: back in 1989 or so, a guy came to our shop and said he worked for a company that chrome plated stuff, so I gave him a 99 valve cover we had laying around. He brought it back a few days later and only charged me $50 for the job. I imagine you won't find that kind of deal this day and age.
brake booster: they usually have rust from brake fluid leaking on them, so I sand them down and coat them with POR15 black, which brake fluid will not attack, or so they claim. I believe I did top coat the POR15, but I don't remember if I used a spray bomb can or the PPG paint....oh, and definitely degrease well before applying POR15 paint to anything. They recommend their marine clean stuff, but it's not really necessary if you sandblast, cus that will remove any grease/oils/fluids that can cause paint not to stick.
a-arms: sandblsated, then painted with POR15 black.
Battery ground strap to tranny case: sandblasted, then cleared with a spray bomb can.
I found out from experience if you sandblast something steel, then decide to clear it, DO NOT touch it with your hands, unless you wax and grease remove it before clearing. Anywhere you touch it, it will rust right thru the clear and look like crap.
rubber bits/wiring harness/hoses: lacquer thinner works really well for removing stubborn dirt, but let it dry overnight before letting it touch anything with fresh paint on it.
engine bay decals: I have a local source who can make me anything I need, as long as there is a jpeg image of an original one available. I have some of them in my saabpics album. Even if they aren't 100% correct for the year, my guy can edit them and change wording quite easily.
posted by 68.171.93...
, Thu, 16 Nov 2006 16:44:53, Wed, 15 Nov 2006 18:35:40, Thu, 16 Nov 2006 05:05:43, Thu, 16 Nov 2006 18:37:21 <-- Viewing This Message
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