1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Yes to the MBC+A. The MBC is clearly an inadequate solution. MBC+A fixes boost pressure overshoots and boost droops created by not having the pneumatic feedback signal from the TB or intake manifold.
With either, you will quickly learn some new throttle techniques. You will learn to get off of the throttle instead of having the petal fully depressed and waiting for something to happen. And 1st gear will be overloaded (wheel spin) and you will have to 'granny' the throttle for that. In a 5spd, 2nd gear WOT (wide open throttle) runs are WOW! I do not know how the autobox is with this high power. The vehicle will be very strong and responsive. It is not unfair to state that it will be a tranformation.
Either one does make boost come on faster. That typically causes problems with the OEM BPV. The BPV works ok, but it moans and honks which really bugs most folks. You have a stronger BPV now I expect, which may be better in this regard than early units. You might find that it is quiet if you reverse the valve. Many install a metal piston type valve (that they probably lusted for in any case).
A number of folks are upgrading Viggens with front mount IC's (FMIC). These folks have Viggen ICs lying around getting dusty. You may have the new style lower rad host to clear the turbo-IC hose. You will have to look. Otherwise, you need to replace that hose as part of the job. Then you might be wanting to do a cooling flush as long as the coolant is mostly drained anyways... and that is time for a new t-stat.
-=We have long recmmended the Saab Sports exhaust as a non-optional supporting mod=- So that detracts from the cheapness of these low cost boost mods.
Other things to do. K&N, 3" duct mod, TBTC rework. There is a 3" speaker port duct with a proper flair at the end that solves the 'entrance loss' problem of a straight cut tube. You will hear the turbo and hear a lot of air flow rush when on boost.
The groove or long dent in the TB feed pipe is an annoyance. Not easy to remove. How do you plan on doing this?
You need to run a synthetic xW40 oil, use better filters (Purolator PureOne PL10241 suggested), use premium fuel (avoid things like gas labled as 10% ethanol), use BCPR7ES11 (yes 7ES) plugs, keep injectors clean with Techron Concentrate. You do not know history of the vehicle, suggest a 20 ounce bottle of Techron now, and then the smaller bottles, every 8K or 3X/year.
I would retorque the head bolts, especially for 1999, unless you can find out that this was done once already. When the CV is off, you can inspect for sludge or varnish and take appropriate corrective measures if needed.
That is probably not the original DIC. Read the manufacturing date code on the label (on bottom). It is YYWW, year and week of the year (1-52).
You seem to be appoaching the time for the 2nd change of the autobox fluid.
With this power, you will want higher performance tires for increased wet and dry traction. Such tires also reduce your emergency stopping distances* and increase your chances of successful accident avoidance manouvers.
* Most folks do not realize that the tires are responsible for this, and if the stock/oem brake setup is in a good state of repair, that brake rotor or pad changes will not have any effect on stopping distances at all, just the feel of the brakes. The exception is repeated agressive stops** (like track use), where the limiting factors are temperature driven.) So the tires are the limiting factor under every day driving conditions. ** and in that case, one is struggling to reduce the loss of brake effectiveness and is not increasing peak braking performance at all, because the limits are still controlled by the tire contact patch.
With an older vehicle, you are dumping in $$$ and the book valve is sinking like a stone. If you are involved in an accident, the insurance company will total out your vehicle and you loose your work and $$$. So better stopping and accident avoidance in the wet/dry/snow become all the more important as you may otherwise loose it all. (Insert blurb on snow tires here).
Find and read threads on rear sway bars and steering rack clamp+brace.
Jeff in ATL puts up a MBC+A kit. It (MBC+A) is my concept and Jeff did the work, component testing, selection and sourcing.)
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