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my 2001 9-3 has been having a lot of problems with boost in the past few months. Daily driving with a light foot everything seems ok, but under WOT it behaves in 3 different ways. Rarely the turbo boosts evenly up to the red smoothly, sometimes it barely gets past green and really dogs, but most of the time it just hits mid-yellow and hesistates and lurches with the needle wiggling back and forth. Always - it will never hold its full boost potential. If it hits mid yellow it will drop back down immediately and hold it there if it happens to be running smooth.
I have been getting code P1182 for a while now, and it keeps clearing itself out. One fine day about a month ago it boost way into the red accompanied by very little power. THis resulted in the air delivery pipe blowing off of the Throttle body accompanied with a nice medly of of engine fault codes: 2 DI cassette fault codes, 1 MAF code, and good old P1182 (rich fuel mix).
I have done various things to resolve what feels like a vaccuum problem to me. I have replaced or at least inspected all of the vaccum lines, I have replaced the BCV solenoid, I have cleaned out and inspected the BPV, I have replaced my plugs with NGK copper 6's and regreased the DI booties with dielectric grease, and today I took out the MAF and sprayed isopropyl alcohol on the 3 wires on the off chance some silicone grease from my K&N has gotten on them. Well she still runs exactly the same .... like crap.
Earlier today I went to the dealer for a diagnosis. They read back toe codes to me... the ones I listed above which showed up a month ago and were cleared. I did not know you could pull up old codes that have been cleared out but that seems like what they were looking at. I watched the Tech take my car for a drive around the block for 5 minutes, and when he came back he said my MAF was reading that (forgive me if I do not know the measurements) the airflow was 12-13 instead of around 24 where it should be, leading him to think I should replace the MAF and possibly the DI.
So cleaning out the MAF did nothing whatsoever. If the MAF is reading the actual airflow improperly like a failed MAF should, wouldn't it just throw me a MAF code and the car would drive just fine? If the MAF thinks the engine is not getting enough air, wouldnt the ECU compensate by trying to suck more air and in fact give the car more power? Or if the MAF is fine and the actual airflow is that lousy, what else could be the cause?
As is, the car drives like the wastegate is half open or there is a bird in the Intercooler. Should I just bite the bullet and buy a MAF. They are not too expensive but I am skeptical, and throwing parts at cars seems like a bad way to diagnose problems.
Sorry about the horribly long post. I hope somebody more knowledgable than I can put there pieces toghether. I am at my wits end.
posted by 24.176.22...
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