1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
It's not too bad - if you have the time and tools.
If using a ball joint tool that uses a bolt to put pressure, you need the type that levers against the bolt - the horizontal type (as opposed to the vertical type where the bolt puts direct pressure on the ball joint). Even then, it has to be one that has a relatively thin end. I've used the KD Tools one from Sears that is sometimes on sale for about $20. You will need to take the axle nut off so you can push the axle inwards a little. This will give you enough clearance to slip the tool over the joint (otherwise there's not enough clearance between the axle and the ball joint).
If you do a search, there is also a method whereby you put downward pressure on the assembly, then hit the knuckle where the ball joint goes through. The vibration and temp deformation causes the joint to pop loose. I've also used this method, but it needs to be a fairly sharp hit with a good sized hammer (I've used a 32oz ball peen and a small 3lb sledge that has a blunt point on one end - the 3lb sledge works a lot better (more inertia)). It works, and you don't have to hassle with the axle and nut. Just be careful with your blows.
Finally, since you wouldn't care about the old joint/arm in this kind of case, one method that I've used that is super fast and easy is to use a ball joint separator bit (fork) on an air hammer. A short blast and it's done. It can destroy the boot of the joint in the process, but it's a moot point as you're replacing it anyway. I have read that people have a difficult time with a manual pickle fork and hammer because it seems to be a tight fit with the joint. Again, you don't have to hassle with the axle and nut.
You would likely need a new sway bar end link as the bolt usually breaks when you try to remove that if it has any age on it.
One last thing that may be a deal breaker for some. The final torque of the inner bolt that holds the arm has to be done with the suspension in the weighted mode. In other words, you have to have the car at operating height before doing the final torque down.
I use a scissor lift to do the work, then I lower the four wheels on to four brick assemblies so that I still have enough room to get underneath to do the final torque. I suppose you could use a jack to get the four wheels on something like that, but I've never tried it that way, so YMMV. I also do not know what detriment it would be to do the final torque down of the bolt with the axle suspended rather than the suspension being in riding position.
posted by 98.229.227...
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