Re: 3 probs: oil leak, coolant leak and headlight alignment - Saab NG900 & OG9-3 Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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Re: 3 probs: oil leak, coolant leak and headlight alignment
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Posted by Dean (more from Dean) on Fri, 13 Oct 2000 09:32:08 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: 3 probs: oil leak, coolant leak and headlight alignment, CKI, Fri, 13 Oct 2000 01:30:51
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Rear Seal: Have you been using synthetic oil? Try Gunk/Solder Seal Bear'n Seal. It will make hardened seals more supple and compliant. Worked for me.
Trany Seals: My external bearing seals show some seapage, but no running, just enough to collect dirt. Dealer did not recommend any service. Had them check the level, no problem. The dealer cannot see the the trany input seal without pulling the trany. If your trany oil level is ok, there is no problem. Seals do not have to be sanitary. Lip seals are not spec'd to be ablolutely leak proof. Many NG900 trany's leak, and many folks have had the seals replaced. But are the new seals any better? When the seals are replaces many elect to convert to the Saab synthetic trany oil. If you pull the trany, this is so expensive that many elect to do clutch work while they are there, and that would include a throw out bearing and clutch cable.

Lights: Yes, clean them. Use a soft cloth and windex on the reflectors, not paper towels. The reflectors have very sharp edges. Be very careful or you will have blood on your hands. Afterall, it is Friday the 13th! The internal levelers are junk, and were added to satisfy some arcaine US requirement. You need a 6mm or 1/4 hex on a 6" extension. There are 3/4: holes near the outside corners of the lamps. These control elevation. This is the nly adjustment you will need to make. If you pull the lamps to dissmantle and clean, you will see them. You might want to fit new H4 bulbs at the same time. My lamps needed to be adjusted a fair amount. The levels were indicating that they were correct before I moved them. The gaskets can be reused, just take care when seperating them. Dress them lightly with some silicone grease whenn reassembling.

Coolant leaks: The clamps leak. The rubber yields under the clamps over time, with reduces the clamping load. Tighten everything that you can find. I would be suspicious of the overflow tubes that go into the white reservoir. I thightend clamps when the car was new, and after 3 years, had to do it again becuase of minor leaks. Found leakage at the reservoir. do the clamps for the turbo plumbing too, especially yhe pressurized joints. I have not replaced any hoses. There is no sign of any problems and the dealer made no comments during a full vehicle inspection. Look for your self.

Bottom line, if your clutch is working fine, do the snake oil to fix the seal. Look at the trany your self. Is it wet near the seals, or just a dirt collection at the seals? If the trany oil level is ok, then don't worry. I had my rear seal leak stop completely. If you recently converted to synthetic oil, that could be the cause as it can remove deposits from seals. Long term use of some synthetic oil can also seal stiffening.

So at best you are out one, perhaps two bottles of snake oil, and a couple of H4 lamps. You might get the dealer to check the trany oil level.

95SET, 113000 miles, mostly on synthetic


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