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Notes about my fuel pump replacement / upgrade  1 Saabers Like This Post!
Posted by Ryan Eirich [Email]  (#2061) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ryan Eirich) on Wed, 8 Apr 2020 18:11:58
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Just finished replacing the fuel pump in my Viggen after the original one died. In planning for future power levels on the car, I went with an Aeromotive 340 (this was suggested by John Z Williams of JZW). This was not incredibly difficult but it was not easy either. IMO, don't be a chump and cut the floor of your Saab and drop the tank like you're supposed to. It's not really that bad. This is not a step by step guide but bullet points that I think are very helpful:
THE INEVITABLE:
- You will want the tank as light as possible so try to get the fuel out first. You can't siphon fuel from the fill point; there's an anti-siphon feature. Go under the car and disconnect the fill tube close to the tank and siphon it from there.
- Once removed, on top of the fuel tank is a special plastic clip that helps retain the supply and return line connections to the tank. The tabs on this can break easily. (mine was yellow and it broke and the replacement I bought was yellow too) The part number is 4392957 EVEN THOUGH all the saab parts websites say it's for 94-98 900's only. They are wrong... it fits all OG9-3's too. Otherwise you'll never find the part if you're looking for something that fits a 9-3. The one I pulled off my car that is original has this part number on it. I would suggest buying the $8 part in case you need it.
- The fuel tank locking ring is on there TIGHT! I tried doing it with a hammer and a piece of wood and broke a tab after a lot of fruitless work, so I ponied up about $35 for the Lisle one and it worked awesome (P/N 63000) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-63000
- Getting the fuel pump assembly out of the tank SUCKS. They should have made the hole bigger... frankly I was cursing Saab on this one. Be careful though because you don't want to damage the fuel level sensor/float in any way. I ended up cutting the plastic line that returns to the pickup filter, since you'll find that is what is hanging you up. When you're putting the assembly back in, your new rubber line will have enough flex in it that it will compress, allowing you to get it back in easier than it came out.
- The big O-Ring on my fuel tank locking ring was in perfect condition and I replaced it because I had already purchased a new one. Multiple others have reported these being in great condition too, so maybe you could save some $$ and not get one.
-You will need to replace most/all of the factory plastic fuel lines in the pump assembly. Make sure you buy fuel hose that's RATED FOR SUBMERSION! The exterior of normal fuel lines is not meant to be immersed in gasoline. It's roughly $18-21 a foot so be prepared to spend 40-60 on hose alone.
-You will need fuel injection clamps like these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-390541
They provide 360 degrees of coverage and it is necessary because people using typical worm gear clamps often have leaks.
- You might want to buy a metal T-joint barbed fitting like I did to replace the factory plastic one. I didn't trust it, especially at 18 years old.
- When you're putting the assembly back in the tank and wondering exactly how it's supposed to be indexed, there is a line on the tank that you match up with a line on the top of the fuel pump assembly.
ISSUES WITH THE PUMP UPGRADE SPECIFICALLY:
-The Aeromotive 340 is bigger than the factory pump and it requires re-sizing the rubber isolators that house the pump within the overall assembly. I just used a brand new X-Acto blade and it wasn't too hard.
- The Aeromotive 340 has a 5/16" barbed outlet which is larger than the 1/4" fittings on the rest of the fuel pump assembly, which will require you to step down after the fuel pump. I just bought a 5/16" to 1/4" barbed fitting to do this.
, Wed, 8 Apr 2020 18:11:58 <-- Viewing This Message
1, Sun, 26 Apr 2020 18:44:412
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