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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life Posted by Mike Lynch [Email]  (#81) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Mike Lynch) on Sat, 26 Sep 2015 17:59:21
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So my wife's California mom buys me this book on surfing for me to read at our new Baja beachhouse, even though she knows I don't read books. I read a lot, newspaper every day and numerous motorcycle and car mags, Funny Times and the New Yorker, but I can't remember the last book I read, probably 2001, something about Codfish... She does know I surf, even more poorly since my new hip replacement.
Turns our the author William Finnegan is my age, grew up and learned to surf in SoCal and we've both been to a lot of the same places. SoCal, Baja, Hawaii, Maui and Hanalua Bay, Australia on the Gold Coast, South Africa and Jeffries Bay, L.A., New York and San Francisco too, so every chapter was familiar. Folks our age, 62ish, matured in the 1950's, 60's and 70's, faced the same challenges, drugs, rock'n roll, the Vietnam war and the draft. And now he's a reporter and editor for the New Yorker! Lots and lots of common ground.
So I wound up devouring the whole 444 pages in barely a week. Books huh, not too bad.
, Sat, 26 Sep 2015 17:59:21 <-- Viewing This Message
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