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Hi Ims,
Thanks for your help.
1. Those damn gauges mean nothing so test using a real gauge which can bought cheap at almost any auto part store.
XXX Let me clarify, I have a external gauge I can use to set the base boost. I'm just wondering approximately what early - mid- full yellow and red equal?
2. On the old cars like yours and my old spg, it is common to set base-boost half of full boost on modded cars.
XXX Ok so if I want to get full RED like I had before with my old Turbo or 3/4 Red should I set my base boost to 10 PSI? Full RED = 20 lbs PSI or about that correct?
3. Get a gauge
XX Thanks I have one, perhaps I should by an extra gauge and mount it full time and just add a Tee line at the normal Saab gauge. This will make adjustments easy.
4. Yes, shortening increases base boost which will also increase max boost on earlier cars, but use an external spring instead, which can also be bought at a parts store.
XXX I have a special heavier spring wastegate actuator wont this do the same thing? Are you saying just rig up an external spring to keep extra rod tension? Wont this be extremely variable depending on the spring thickness and length?
5. There will be less turbo lag, and the car will feel much more alive, but if you don't have fuel cut off taken out, you could hit it.
XXX I've taken the fuel cut off out a few years ago when I put the a red APC 34lbs injectors a 2.3 L head and BIG exhaust. My rod length is adjusted about 6-8 threads more length than the stock rod. I guess I should test base boost now if it's 2-3 PSI adjust the rod shorted and try and find 8-10 PSI base boost? I've seen post where people said they were getting 20lbs of boost with the base set at 4 lbs PSI? Why is it bad to have 10-12 LBS base boost? Thanks for clarifying. My car should run much better when I shorten the rod sometime this week.
Thanks again for your help.
Dave
posted by 72.47.20...
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