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egg shelling the TBTC
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Posted by Dean (more from Dean) on Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:27:10 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: ng900 or 9-3 intake upgrades ideas?, ckpaden, Sat, 1 Jun 2002 14:47:34
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I cut part of the air temp sensor mounting boss to get more of a section to clamp afterwards. With 20PSI you will be asking more from the clamp than with my pressures. With it cut in two, you can grind it for hours and get it to around 3/32" thick. You need to match the thicknesses at the joint. Take your time with it. You will be grinding the full length of the casting. I still think that a 1" dia drum, medium grit, sander is the best for stock removal and contour control. A flex shaft is great because it does not get hot in the hand like an electric tool.

Roughen the outside clamp areas a bit and smear some junk (glue) on it and allow that to dry and cure. I used a section cut out of a 2" truck rad hose, I just measured that. And a drain water pipe clamp that has two band clamps and a section of corregated stainless steel. Took that apart, and cut a narrower section of the stanless and used that over the rubber. Degrease the inside of the rad hose to remove any mold release lubricant, to get a better friction to the goop coated aluminum. If it pops off, you will need to weld some blocks to the pieces and bridge the joint with two metal straps to take the tension off of the joint.

I got a small hacksaw, a short one, with a blade that is quite thin compared to a regular hack saw. Use a vice and cut it by hand.

The rad hose will be a bit of a struggle to get on perhaps, but the 2" size works well. This is definately an overkill project. But for larger air flows it probably pays off.

Before you cut it in two, level off the exterior if need, and score a witness mark to indicate how to clock the two parts when joining later.

You will have to guage the thickness by feel. I found that it took some care but was not difficult. It might not be easy for some folks. You don't want to grind through the casting wall!



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