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Re: Weber 34-ICH Carburetor for a Sonett III Posted by Paul Z [Email]  (#481) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Paul Z) on Sat, 21 Mar 2009 09:38:04
In Reply to: Re: Weber 34-ICH Carburetor for a Sonett III, eric in vermont, Fri, 20 Mar 2009 15:11:16 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Hello Eric, and thanks for your comments. I had your same concern with overheating even when I was installing the original FoMoCo, so while the radiator was pulled during the restoration, I had the original radiator professionally re-cored. It cost me about 400 bucks (I can’t remember for sure but I do remember coming home to Susan with my tail between my legs), but I and am glad I did it. I also have my suspicions that a fair percentage of Sonett overheating is due to poorly installed (kinked or collapsed) lower radiator hoses, so I took great care in that area also. I have been running the optional cooler 180 degree thermostat with my FoMoCo (195 degree is standard), and the engine barely reaches mid temperature so I have a lot of play.
By now, you have probably started on your metal brake line repair. I replaced all of mine and it is not a fun project. Connecting the brake lines at the master cylinder takes patience and cunning! I am reasonably sure that you are aware, but for the record each metal brake line to the rear drums are two pieces. The front half connects with the back half at a threaded connection by the floor inside the fuel cage behind the driver’s seat. When I replaced my front lines, I had the front fiberglass off so it was not too difficult threading the lines. I inserted straight lines through the radiator opening past the side of the engine and then threaded them through the firewall at which point they were bent as little as possible snaking them underneath the floor channel (beneath the seats) and then through the lower portion of the fuel cell cage, where the threaded connection to the back section of line is. Of course the metal floor plate by the pedals has to be removed then the seats and the carpet, then the fuel cage cover. Connecting the lines to the master cylinder was last. The master cylinder has two brass outlets and each outlet has two lines (one for front and one for back) connected. I tried twice to connect all four lines with the master cylinder in place and both times I ended up with leaks, so I learned the hard way to remove the brass outlets from the master cylinder, connect one front and one rear brake lines to each outlet and then re-install the brass outlet with one bolt. It cut working time to a fraction and forming the lines as I positioned the brass outlets into place was much simpler. Hope all goes well!
Paul
, Fri, 20 Mar 2009 09:22:39
, Sat, 21 Mar 2009 09:28:49, Sat, 21 Mar 2009 09:38:04 <-- Viewing This Message, Sat, 21 Mar 2009 15:24:11
, Sat, 21 Mar 2009 16:56:09, Sat, 21 Mar 2009 15:20:40
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