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1964-1974 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
His responses were excellent, but placed without a user name so they were set to expire. That would be a shame, as they were excellent and complete, so I have cut and pasted them below:
Re: I thought I was free from a dead clutch!
Posted by Jim H (more from Jim H) on Tue, 8 May 2007 21:16:51
In Reply to: Re: I thought I was free from a dead clutch!, (no name) thread will expire, Tue, 8 May 2007 21:14:31
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Larry, NAPA (Dayna Hays) #1016 ¡î. Universal kit, has correct dust cover, valve seal, valve stem end seal, non-application seals, installation grease and instructions (do not hone the master).
From the driver¡¯s side of the engine compartment, with the air cleaner assembly removed and a trouble light positioned on top of the transaxle, I removed the clutch hydraulic assembly as follows:
1. I started by draining the clutch reservoir¡¯s fluid using the slave cylinder¡¯s bleeder using a 7/16¡± boxed-end wrench. As my assistant slowly pushed the clutch pedal I opened the bleeder, and as the pedal dropped to the floor I then closed it prior to any lifting off of the pedal to raise it back. This was repeated this until it was empty.
2. From inside the driver¡¯s compartment I disconnected the push rod from the clutch pedal by removing the locating pin (after removing its cotter pin and washer) and loosened the top nut, which secures the clutch master.
3. Next from the engine compartment, I removed the bottom ¨ö¡± nut holding the clutch master, which is mounted onto a fire wall stud. I used a 3/8¡±drive socket wrench with a 6¡± extension.
4. Then I removed the Philips screw bolt and 3/8¡± nut which holds the clutch reservoir to the inner fender plate bracket and disconnected the reservoir from the reservoir line. Although there was a fuel type hose clamp I had to cut the line as the clamp was badly rusted and the line was shot. I later replaced this 12¡± hydraulic line with a 14¡± piece of 5/8¡± brake fluid compatible hose for under $3.00. I replaced the two hose clamps from a Motormite ¡°HELP!¡± #55172 package with two of the # 14 (9/16¡±) fuel hose clamps. The $7.00 package contains six 5/8¡± and six 9/16¡± clamps and was on one of the turn-style racks at my local auto parts supplier.
5. I released the brake and clutch hydraulic reservoir lines from the securing tab on the fire wall and pushed them out of my view as described below.
6. While looking down through the clearance between the steering rack¡¯s bellows and the fire wall I could just see the head of the top bolt. With a 6¡± long ¨ö¡± open-end wrench I was able to hold the bolt head, while my assistant removed the ¨ö¡± nut and washer from inside the driver¡¯s compartment with the 3/8¡± socket wrench with an 8¡± extension.
7. With a ¨ö¡± boxed-end wrench, I next removed the slave cylinder from the transaxle. Note that some slave cylinders have a shim between them and the transaxle casing.
8. The remaining clutch hydraulic assembly was then free to be removed. This was accomplished while feeding the reservoir line down through the clearance between the steering rack¡¯s bellows and the fire wall. Note: As you remove the master pay attention so you can write down exactly where you will need to feed this line for reinstallation. The master cylinder could be turned once the push rod¡¯s dust cover was free of the mounting hole in the fire wall. Turning the top of the master slightly towards the transaxle and careful guidance of the unit with the attached reservoir line past the brake master¡¯s components/wires was required.
9. Note: I recorded the angle position that the slave cylinder¡¯s hydraulic line was in relation to the clutch master¡¯s body and with a 7/16¡± flare nut wrench I removed the line from the clutch master.
10. Next, using the 7/16¡± flare nut wrench I removed the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder¡¯s line adapter
11. With the 7/16¡± flare nut wrench and a 15mm open-ended wrench I removed the hydraulic line adapter and copper washer from the slave cylinder.
12. I then removed the reservoir line and using a large pair of channel lock pliers I removed the clutch master¡¯s cap.
13. After removing the dust cover, cir-clip and push rod from the master I was able to remove the valve assembly by tapping the valve end of the body down onto a small piece of 2 x 4 wood.
14. With the 7/16¡± flare nut wrench I removed the bleeder.
15. I then cleaned and/or soaked everything over night using brake cleaner.
16. The next day as I followed the rebuild kit¡¯s instructions I completed the rebuild.
I reinstalled the clutch hydraulic assembly as follows:
1. With the new reservoir hydraulic line mounted and secured with a new clamp I replaced the mounting bolt into the upper mounting hole of the clutch master and secured the bolt in place with a piece of masking tape.
2. I protected the open end of the reservoir line from debris with tape and guided it up through the clearance between the steering rack¡¯s bellows.
3. Next, I carefully guided the master with the attached slave cylinder and line past the brake master¡¯s components/wires Note the comments in step 8 above.
4. From inside the driver¡¯s side, my trusty assistant guided the push rod through the mounting hole in the fire wall and temporarily attached the clutch pedal to the rod.
5. Then as I turned and pushed the master my assistant guided the clutch master¡¯s dust cover end and the mounting bolt end through the mounting holes.
6. Using a small piece of masking tape placed around the inside of the ¨ö¡± socket, to hold the nut securely, I reinstalled the bottom ¨ö¡± nut using the 3/8¡± drive socket wrench with a the 6¡± extension.
7. I was again able to see and hold the top bolt head by looking down through the clearance between the steering rack¡¯s bellows and the fire wall. And while I pushed against the bolt my assistant reinstalled the washer and ¨ö¡± nut from inside the driver¡¯s compartment. A new cotter pin was then installed into the clutch pedal¡¯s locating pin.
8. Next I mounted the slave cylinder onto the transaxle.
9. Then I reattached the clutch reservoir to the reservoir line and inner fender plate bracket.
10. I filled the reservoir with DOT 3 fluid.
11. After several repetitions, starting with my assistant pumping the pedal for a minute and then slowly pushing the clutch pedal as I opened the bleeder (while the pedal dropped to the floor and closing it prior to any lifting off the pedal to raise it back) I bled the air out of the clutch.
Good luck!
posted by 24.71.223...
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