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"Remove Ignition module and clean"??? Posted by RS [Email]  (#15)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from RS) on Sun, 19 Nov 2000 12:58:44
In Reply to: I need HELP...Very very Long, Ryan Floyd, Sat, 18 Nov 2000 19:04:18 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
It sounds like he's spreading a layer of BS on along performing the rest of his work. "Scope fuel pump"????? Why on earth (and where) is he putting 15W50?
You probably have a few concurrent problems instead of one problem that's causing all of the symptoms.
First of all, the oil capacity is 3.5 to 4 quarts, not 4.5, so you're likely getting a lot of frothing of oil in the sump. It's probably getting sucked up through the PCV causing the oil burning. He waaaaaay overfilled the sump.
For the stalling problem: look under the hood at the vacuum lines, especially the ones connected to the nipple on the side of the back end of the intake manifold, one of the hoses is traditionally knocked off by oil changers.
There's generally no reason to take the ignition module off unless it's failed. If he *did* remove it from the inner fender, he should have put more of the heat sink compound on the back of it.
Burning smell: Did you check to see whether one of the front wheels was significantly hotter than the other - that's a sign of a dragging brake. Check for black, burned drip spots on the exhaust manifold - A sign of a leaking valve cover gasket.
The buildup of exhaust behind you: Was it white or blue-grey and did it smell of burning oil? If it's very humid, you can get moisture condensing out of the exhaust (one of the byproducts of hydrocarbon is water), and froming a cloud behind you. Try this: Start the car and let it idle. If you're burning oil, you will get a blue smoke cloud that smells like, well, burning oil. If you are getting coolant leakage into a cylinder, you will get a whitish cloud that smells rather sweet.
For the yellowish stuff on the dipstick, it sounds like it might be coolant. You may possibly have a bad head gasket.
On the "grabbing" in 1st and 2nd, it sounds like an ignition problem. rather than a brake difficulty. It may be a case of improperly gapped plugs or ... the connector on the side of the distributor is loose or broken. Start it up, let it idle, and touch the black connector on the distributor (it's on the driver's side). If the car stalls when you touch it, the connector is bad. I fixed the one on my '88 900T with some nylon tiewraps (it's not elegant, but it stopped the WOT-in-1st cut-out problem.) Also check to see whether there are distributor cap imprints on the underhood insulation. That's a sign that the front motor mount is bad and should be replaced.
I would suggest taking it back to the shop and complaining. Give him a chance to make it right. Then, if he doesn't, find another technician. I have no doubt that someone on the BBS can recommend a good Saab tech.
And, if you have the will and a place to work, learn to do some of your own work. Unlike what the guys at JPS say about their business, it's not rocket science. There's a lot of good advice on SAABnet for the DIYer.
Good luck
, Sun, 19 Nov 2000 12:58:44 <-- Viewing This Message, Mon, 20 Nov 2000 09:40:28, Sun, 19 Nov 2000 20:58:59
, Sun, 19 Nov 2000 17:11:44
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