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This was also in the doc I made for subframe bushing replacement. I don't know where it came from, so I can't credit the author:
tools:
for the middle bushings, hammered them out with a brass punch, 5 or 6 wacks and they were out
rear ones: I pushed out the center (rubber) section with a 2 jaw puller (well, pusher really) then used a hack saw on one of them to cut the metallic ring inside the bushing (could not use a sawzall for lack of space); for the second one, since sawing was so difficult, I just worked my way around it with a set of pliers (knipex part 8701250 to be exact)essentially using them as a pry bar to push the metal lip of the bushing toward the hollowed inside. This one took about 3 minutes I'd say.
So once you have the technique, it's pretty fast, even more so if you have good access.
As far as what to do: the key to dropping the rear of the subframe is to remove the rear engine mount main bolt, then unbolt the steering assembly 2 main bolts (under the car, between the mid and rear bushings), and I also partially unbolted the front bushings to get a bit more leverage.
Space to remove the mid bushing was very tight so you might be better off leaving them in place (they seemed to be in perfect condition), but no issue removing the rear. To set the bushings in, I greased them, put them in place without the center core then used a second jack to push the subframe up and they slid right in (had to wiggle them a bit by placing a screwdriver in the center so that the lower lip would settle nicely) then put the metal sleeve in place.
Re the lifting setup, I have a jack that lifts to 19" only so I could have used a 3" extension and it would have helped greatly, I lift at the front lifting point then let the car settled on sturdy A/C jack stands (they don't make them anymore but Esco has a nice replacement here: http://www.uniquetruck.com/p-16223-jack-stand-1-each.aspx?affiliateID=10056&gclid=CLHwvY-cnrUCFQsGnQodlzIAeg)
Finally: total time: hours and hours and hours because I wasted time trying various approaches, looking for tools, trying to McGyver solutions...maybe 6 hours total which is way too long. If I had to redo the rear ones only in better conditions, definitely less than 2 hours
My recommendation in the end: do the rear only, try to lift the car a lot so that you have space to work (be safe though) and get the urethane because they're much easier than pressing the OEMs
Net result: the ride feels very taut (mercedes like) but of course now I hear the other creaks , moans and noises coming from other parts of the car... All in all, I'd say very much worth it (and I saved 450$, which I can use for a nice lift and a bunch of other tools , or buy whatever part will fail next)
posted by 24.8.37...
, Sat, 8 Oct 2016 06:25:51
, Wed, 5 Oct 2016 13:54:16, Fri, 7 Oct 2016 09:22:41
, Wed, 5 Oct 2016 09:47:28, Wed, 5 Oct 2016 10:38:26
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