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crankshaft/pump/chain tensioner, seals and all pulleys replaced! Posted by mlc [Email] (#1747) [Profile/Gallery] (more from mlc) on Thu, 16 Apr 2020 05:59:53 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I finally got around to tackling this job last weekend.. One of those jobs where its a bear the first time around.. but I can see it taking a quarter of the time if I had to ever do it again...
Here are my thoughts/experiences for those thinking of tackling this job...
1)Timing Chain Tensioner: I replaced the washer and O-Ring, as I was in there replacing the pulleys anyway.. At 276,000 miles.. I figured it was time. No special tricks here, just remove the upper puller first to gain access...and be careful not to drop the plastic stem or spring on removal. The extender was within the normal range...
2) Pulleys: Upper idler pulley is simple. The tensioner pulley required removal of the whole assembly, in order to get access to the pulley. I cut a section off my hex key, inserting that into a open ratcheting wrench, which made removal easy. I use the long belt, so also replaced the middle pulley (ugh!). It comes out easy enough, with a wrench, but getting it back in is nearly impossible. Ultimately, I inserted the bolt through the pulley, taping the bolt head to the pulley.. and then inserting it all at once, rotating the bolt and pulley together until the thread caught.. Trying to thread that into the hole is a true test of patience.. but it worked!
3)Crankshaft Seal and Oil pump ring: Balancer came off easy enough, with a cheap electric impact drill from harbor freight, that I've used in the past to remove strut bolts..However; that SnapRing/C-Clip is a nightmare, unless you have some expensive/commercial tool. I tried a couple of tools, and eventually got it off. Getting it back on proved even more difficult, as it continually popped/slipped off the tool when trying to squeeze the ring. Eventually I took a dremmel tool and cut a small notch at into the 2 end tips of the tool, which allowed me to grip the ring with enough tension to reinsert it. I ended up using a timken readi-sleeve on the balancer as added insurance with the crankshaft seal, as the balancer did have a wear groove on it. and given the fact that i had a shop replace it a few years earlier, I didn't want to take a chance.. The sleeve is very easy to install.. Time will tell if this works ...
In any case.. thanks to all that offered advise to me earlier on this .. much appreciated..
Mike
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