1999-2009 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Much Later our firewall side and Timing cover side oil leaks are solved.
1. Main leak was Oil Pressure Switch Interesting clearances even with starter removed :)
2. PCV oil separator box had bolt missing and the other bolt 3 turns loose. Fix W new box/new pipes
3. Oil pump oring hardened, and deep groove in crank pulley, sleeve saver on pulley, new cover + oring
4. Re Torqued head bolts, renewed VC o-rings PCV rubber hoses
5. only when driving 20 minutes, leak from T/Chain tension er area developed oil trail to r-side pan
renewed Can Tension er base seal, top T/C adjuster spring o-ring
6. added second PCV purge metered one way check valve device after seeing 2 PSI-crankcase@Full boost
7. slowed leak in half
8. remembered in 2002 as dealer technician,T/cover upper surface ( below T/C tension er area ) had low
spot and w steel Head Gasket and W/O any factory sealant in this area--- big job w new/used TC ahead.
9. Knowing yes gap occurred for leak, yet also knowing addressing pos crank pressure under boost 50% slowed leak..and reading others had externally patched this area w epoxy w some success....
10. external T/C to head epoxy patch chosen: R&R alt, alt brkt,pulley bracket Bull horns and rs motor mount...left T/C tension er in place... used 6" hack saw metal blade 3 MM above and 3 mm below area to
patch, surface surrounding prep also occurred 20 mm to block to head meed and outside to just near where T/cover curved to front of car. then used Rt angle pick awl to supper scratch the actual seam area. THEN DRAINED engine oil, opened PCV pipe at VC and turbo to oil trap... and connected 2" shop Vac hose and then used de greaser purple with tooth brush 4 times, then brake clean 4 times w tooth brush All w Vac on to suck in cleaners to defect oil casting flaw in T/C. lite sand 80 grit and final clean w vac on, then mixed steel epoxy up and used tie strap as trowel to aply external epoxy patch ( w VAC ON 20 minutes) car sat over night epoxy directions for second coat. then next day applied second epoxy coat over all first patch area and a bit more. let dry a day. next day assembled
( new oil in car Mobil syn Euro 0-40 ) 450 miles later.. :) bone dry.
Note: found great supplies and price in alternator brushes in rear housing cover assembly OEM Bosche
@ 148K miles the brushes were worn to 2 mm contact left, new brushes have range of wear 12 mm.
( I am still leaving secondary PCV vent pipe system in place ) This puppy was not going to keep leaking as I was as determined to not take 80-10 hours putting on head gasket w sealant NOR new/used Timing cover adding 6 -8 more hours.
All for a few hydrocarbon hiding in the gap between block and head in each combustion chamber with a 2 mm conventional head gasket. Up Your California EPS, Ah that tiny amounts of HC that did not burn fully each fire stroke was absolutely absurd to go after and place in a steel head gasket.and yto not use sealant around the timing chest when assembling a steel Head gasket was is unconscionable Saab.
these same MF used a paper thin pan gasket in 1979 and to mid 1980, and it split in peices at fly wheel end as well a TC end. Brain trust brought out steel pan gasket ( it did have green pressure sealant applied, AND Saab said USE silicone at TC and FLY wheel ends. techs were paid 3.4 hours at dealer to replace pan gasket 3.8 hour warranty flat rate on turbo model.
must explain why I am still MAD... replace and bleed ed clutch master cylinder for 18 minutes???? al 99 and 900's. Id go hunting fr that flat rate book author if I could. Off my chest, car fixed. MY way. done covering up for your engineering or maching FU's
posted by 71.217.98...
, Thu, 16 Apr 2020 05:59:53
1
, Thu, 16 Apr 2020 11:30:13, Thu, 16 Apr 2020 10:02:16
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