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Just did this job sunday Piece 'O Cake!! Helpful hints for your Posted by Frank [Email]  (#2509) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Frank) on Wed, 14 Feb 2001 15:06:46
In Reply to: Re: CLUTCH JOB Take II, KevinOD, Wed, 14 Feb 2001 14:20:57 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
OK, first of all I couldn't get the clutch fingers to depress all the way because my pedal had worn the pivot point to a much larger oval shape. I removed the pedal, MIG welded up the hole and redrilled to 3/8" as per advice from this board. Also drilled out the rod from the master to same diameter obviously. Then used a 3/8 clevis pin from Sears Hardware, only store around that had one. (NAPA struck out too)
Then I used a piece of plastic coated cable measuring 3/16 diameter and 18" long to jam into the clutch fingers. I couldn't get it to fit all the way in so I put it in as far as I could get, rotated the pressure plate off the dowel pins about 1/2" and had my assistant depress the clutch. Using the dowels to space out the clutch gave me enough room to insert the wire fully.
I used a metal bar with a long oval slot conveniently already in the end to remove the clutch shaft. I simply threaded one of the 8mm bolts through the slot until finger tight and simply levered out the shaft. Took approx 20 seconds. Needless to say I kept this pre-made SAAB tool for future reference.
To install the wire in the new pressure plate I simply placed it on a drill press, protected the contact surface with a rag, fitted the old throw out bearing against the chuck of the drill and pulled down the arm. Worked like a charm. This is definately the way to go if you have a drill press handy.
Once installed I had no problem removing the wire from the pressure plate. I had bent one end out so it stuck out a good inch so I could grab it withe needle nose pliers and yank it out, which I did no problem.
One other hint. The slave cylinder bolts are a tight fit. I undid them easily using a special tool that you can make yourself. Simply buy an offset rotating box wrench from sears hardware. I'm not sure exactly what this tool is called. It has a racheting 6 point box end on each side 1/4 on one end and 5/16 on the other and both ends are offset from the middle. I know sears sells these in a variety of sae and metric sizes. Use the one I descibed and also get a 5mm allen key bit for one of those screwdivers that takes interchangeable bits. They are a hexagonal 1/4 drive and fit perfectly in the 6 point wrench. Now the bit is inserted into the racheting wrench with the offset facing away from the flywheel to give you plenty of room to insert the end of the bit into the slave cyl bolts and simply rachet them out. This makes life a lot easier.
Good luck!
Frank
, Wed, 14 Feb 2001 15:06:46 <-- Viewing This Message
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