1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Hi, Norm
Getting the rear main seal out of there is no problem, as long as you're replacing it with a new one. Being careful not to gouge the metal around it, you can use a small-bladed screwdriver, pen knife, or the like to pry the old seal out. You'll likely damage the seal in the spot where you dig it out of there, but if you're putting in the new one, it doesn't matter. Just be careful not to nick the seat. Once you get the old one out, take a clean rag and wipe the seating surface completely before putting in the new one. A slight film of clean oil might help, too.
Putting in the new one is something of a pain. Using a hammer to tap around the edges I got it seated after about 15 minutes. It seemed to stop moving after that. Anxious to find a shortcut, I tried using a circular tool something like a big metal cup, wedging a long lever against that to push the seal into the engine. It worked TOO well, pushing the seal in too far. I hadn't realized the seal will keep going in if you keep pressing it, ending up below the surface of the engine. And it went in crooked, too! I ended up removing that new seal and ruining it, which cost me an extra $17. Obviously, I don't recommend the "prying press" method.
I was more careful with the second attempt, but it took me nearly half an hour to tap it in. What you do (according to the Saab mech who was coaching me) is tap it lightly with a hammer all around. If you smack it too hard on one side, the other side pops out. You have to get it to go in evenly, parallel to the mating surface, and you have to have a lot of patience. You'll soon figure out just how hard you can tap it -- too lightly and it doesn't go in, too hard and it starts to go in crooked or pops out on the opposite side of where you're hitting. Make sure everything is clean and take your time -- you'll figure it out as you do it. Keep trying, keep tapping. If you're lucky, you may get it in in less than 10 minutes, but as I said, it took me and a friend half an hour on our SECOND try to get the blasted thing in properly.
What was extra vexxing to me is the one I took out was perfectly sound, so I probably should have left it in there instead of replacing it. The Saab mech told me they should only be replaced if they leak, but I thought I'd do it anyway since I had the clutch out. Had I known it was such a pain to put one in, I would have taken his advice and left the old one in there.
Good luck, Norm. It's a job that requires perseverance, that's all.
- = M = -
'87 900T 175K
posted by 208.63.20...
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
