1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Ok this is really long so I apologize in advance, I jump around a bit so sorry for that. Also, I don't want this to be a "one-up" or "I know more than you" responses, just offering my thought's and opinion's from my experiences doing this in the comfort of my "shade tree". Also, I recently swapped a 90 SPG drivetrain into my 86 SPG so it's still pretty fresh on the brain.
First off… time. give yourself ample time to do this. Don’t rush yourself because that’s where mistakes happen and stuff breaks and frustration set’s in.
Engine seals... replacing engine seal’s and bushings are always an easier task when the engine in question is next to you, on the ground then in the car. If you don’t have the maintenance history on the oil pump seal and front and rear seal’s… or if they look like they’re leaking, this is the best time to do them. The parts are around $20.00 and its piece of mind. The front and rear seals will require Saab tools but do a search on the bulletin board as there have been some crafty tool solutions.
Is your alternator wobbly??? Do your bushings but don't waste your money on the urethane bushings, stay with the OE rubber ones. The mtl sleeves provided with the urethane bushing kit's I've tried are too thin and with time the alt. is back to wobbling.
You should verify the differences in trans-axle's but I think they're compatible. Two year's ago I converted my 86 to the later style bolt pattern and my donor car was a 91. At that time my 86... had an 85 turbo gearbox and there wasn't an issue with trans-axle's so in theory you should be fine... but double check anyway.
You mentioned trans swap so I'm assuming you'll still use the 89 engine but if you decide to swap the 85 drivetrain into the 89 you will have to deal with the turbo plumbing issue due to the 89 being water cooled.
If you don't want to mess with the PS system you could unbolt the pump from the engine, leaving it in the car and the system intact. Just make sure to keep an eye on it when setting the DT back in so it'll be in position when you disconnect the hoist. There is one bushing for the pump at its lower connection. If you do decide to un-bolt it order a new bushing cause it's usually pretty worn out.
Like RS said the shifter rods are different between the two because the couplers are different sizes. You will need a Saab tool for removing the ignition housing from the floor of the car... or get crafty with a dremel & cutting wheel and trim the alum. housing and tap on the nut's with a hammer and screw driver. Since your going to have the shifter apart it would be a good time to replace the shifter rod bushing.
Aligning the shifter is pretty straight forward, just make sure to do this before you bolt the new housing in the car. There is an alignment hole in the ignition housing and one in the shifter rod, align those and put the gearbox in reverse...
Double check the Bentley but if memory serve's me reverse is the alignment gear for ext. centering gearboxes.
There is a special tool for this... but a small tapered punch or an allen wrench will work. Also, put the gearbox in reverse BEFORE putting the drivetrain in the car... much easier. Reverse gear will be opposite hand from inside the car. Instead of right and down it will be left and up.
Order a new centering spring... one less hassle if your current one is broken... or break’s. An easy check is pushing the shifter to the side... if it doesn't go back to the center... it's broken. Moreover due to age they usually break when trying to get them out.
A flywheel stopper is nice but a small pry bar will work in a pinch. I have the spacer tool for the pressure plate but have heard of people using the handle from a 5 gallon bucket, just cut to fit.
Other tid-bits:
Instead of disconnecting the oil cooler lines, I wait till I'm pulling out the drivetrain and take the oil filter housing off leaving the cooler lines attached. It's one more gasket to buy but I find it easier than dealing with the fittings.
Old ball joint's make for good suspension spacer's. Saab has a special tool but the ball joints are a close match.
Pick up a small hand ratcheting wrench, size 1/4" and some allen bits. The slave cyl is held in with 3 bolts, they should be allen's but I've seen small metric bolts before. Allen's should be used and I think they're 5mm. Use an allen wrench to break the bolt free and switch to the ratcheting wrench and allen bit for the rest of the work... saves time and frustration. The bit isn't an exact fit but a little Teflon tap will hold it in place.
Grab some high strength locktight for the pressure plate/ flywheel bolt's but DO NOT use it on the slave cyl bolts.
I know that was long, don't let that scare you as it's pretty straight forward. Good luck and most of all, have fun with it.
Fish
posted by 146.145.19...
, Sat, 22 Jan 2005 15:43:27
, Sat, 22 Jan 2005 15:07:52
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