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Re: 1991 Saab 900 Turbo Electrical Problems
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Posted by Saana88 [Email] (#207) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Saana88) on Fri, 14 Sep 2007 14:10:21 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: 1991 Saab 900 Turbo Electrical Problems, Saabmeister, Thu, 13 Sep 2007 21:46:43
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Your alternator died. My '92 S gave me the same symptoms, but the radio cut out entirely with a pop when she started to starve. That's problem number one. I found, after putting a new voltage regulator in the (still failed) alternator and charging the battery that my alternator warning light glowed very dimly. This is an open winding inside the alternator which can only be cured by replacing it. That's not your fault, it was going to happen anyway.
Now on to the tach, I'm betting that was your fault, but don't get bummed because of it. I did the same thing replacing my turn signal slash cruise slash high beam lever. To troubleshoot this one, remove the driver's side speaker grille (two T15 Torx screws, then gently pry and wiggle to disengage two fingers holding the front and passenger's side of the piece to the dash) then lift up and over. The defroster vent will disconnect itself. If you have an alarm on the car, the LED may fall out of the speaker grille. Next, with a clean windshield, peer into the opening and look for connectors on the back of the instrument panel that you may have pulled off. If you need to, pull out the rotary headlight switch (pull straight out or the little pins may break), fog light pushbutton (S/turbo, pull out with a couple of screwdrivers), power seat rheostat (a couple of thin screwdrivers) and maybe even take the lower shroud beneath the turn signal and wiper stalks off. If you take that off, keep the key off and be gentle since the contact ring around the base of the steering wheel tends to be dainty. To remove the shroud, undo the two Torx T20 machine screws just above the base of the stalks.
Speaking of the turn signal stalk, while you're ordering bulbs and bases from our site sponsors (and maybe an alternator), you can get a replacement turn signal stalk from them. I know, $100 is a bit steep, but it'll be fixed and your cruise might even work (S/turbo).
To remove the turn signal switch properly, with that lower cover off, remove two T-25 sheet metal screws from the bottom. These screws hold a retaining "frame" to the bottom of the steering column base. When that piece is loose, pull it down (the stalks will come down with it) and replace the stalk by removing its two mounting screws and transferring over the wire terminals one at a time. I just did the switch on my '88 today (lunch break!) but I think '91 still has separate connectors for everything. If it's all one big funky connector, then you save thirty seconds. One at a time is kind of important so you don't signal a right turn when you try to turn on your high beams and other funny stuff like that. To undo the four-pin connection for the cruise function is a little more involved. You can yank on the wire like I did (note an admission of failure later in this post) or do it the right way and remove the storage console and knee bolster to get at it.
While you're in there, you can fix the instrument illumination bulb and socket. Assuming you are not shorting out any of the airbag bits with a jumper or anything, switch the key on to turn on the dash lights, then grab the bulb holder and give it a couple of jiggles. If the bulb comes back on, the holder tabs have sprung out with age. I tend to replace these holders every ten or fifteen years when this happens. When those contacts bend out they lose contact with the circuit "board" (actually plastic film) and the bulb goes out. If jiggling it around doesn't help, switch the key off and give the holder an eighth to a quarter of a turn until those fingers disengage and pull the bulb and holder out of the instrument panel. With an ohmmeter, test light, continuity tester, or psychic powers check for continuity across the two side terminals. If you don't have continuity, the bulb has burnt out. Both the socket and the bulb can be ordered from Swab or from our friendly site sponsors for next to nothing.

So, in summary, your alternator stopped charging the battery and it slowly discharged to nothing. Had the brushes worn out, you would have seen the alternator warning light, and for a few miles the light would go out at higher engine speeds. The radio dimmed out when the amplifier under your passenger seat lost power to the point where it could no longer amplify. Next, the ABS computer (under the right rear seat) lost power to the point where it could no longer think clearly and the light came on. The good news is that with a fresh alternator and charged battery, this should reset itself automatically without a trip to a dealer (ahem, Carmen). Soon after that, the LH (fuel injection) computer began to starve and it could no longer regulate your fuel injector pulses and idle speed. Soon after that, the battery power to the primary ignition circuit was weak enough it couldn't generate what it needed to throw a spark across your plugs and the engine died. Had your turn signals worked you may have noticed the idle speed going up and down opposite to the turn signal flashing since your battery was so weak. This made me giggle in a very cynical way the last time it happened.

So, put your battery on charge while you're replacing the alternator. Don't make the same mistake I did (I was stuck in a bad situation) and take it to a shop because the ASE-certified imbeciles tried to put a hole in my firewall (ended up with a dent) to replace the alternator. RTFM, morons. They also charged me an ungodly amount of money for a POS alternator with POS brushes that lasted exactly five thousand miles (normally they last me over 150k).
Next, when the car is running again, replace the turn signal switch, check the connections on the instruments and replace that finnicky bulb and housinge and you're off to the races.

Also, buy the Bentley 16 Valve repair manual. You can get that from the site sponsors too, and by the time you do, you're into free shipping territory.
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