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Posted by Siegfried (more from Siegfried) on Sat, 5 Sep 2009 15:49:18 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: Most likely it's level sensor (n/m), Wouter, Sat, 5 Sep 2009 11:56:21
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Wouter,
"Brake warning and ABS warning lights both on:
If both of these lights are on, this indicates that the level in th efluid reservoir has dropped further or the pressure in the accumulator has dropped below 105 bar" (C) Saab Service Manual 5:2 ABS braking system M1989+ GB. (p/no #318360)

It's a long story why, but I think it's the level sensor, not pressure sensor. NB: when I say it's SMTH I mean it's SMTH or its wire harness (wires, connectors).

NB#2:
pump is driven by line #30m that is always alive even if you've got your keys on your pocket. Even if my pocket. It's the coil of ABS pump relay that is driven by line 54 (alive in RUN position only). Why that? Probably it'd be easier to bleed you system with jump-wire having ext switch that is put instead of stock ABS pump relay so you don't need to jump in and turn the ignition on all the time you need to toggle the pump on. But maybe I'm wrong.

Nevertheless here go troubleshooting steps:
1. Check if it is the level sender. Unplug its connector and short pins #3 (BK) and #4 (WH) with u-jump. Turn ignition on and you should have you (!) brake warning light off and pump running (pump must stop within half a minute). If so then replace level sender. If not then proceed further.
2. Remove all previous temporary wires. Temporary get a good ground connection to pin #2 of the pressure switch connector (connector must be plugged onto the pressure switch). Turn ignition on and you should have you (!) brake warning light off and pump running (pump must stop within half a minute). If so then check and repair wire harness for level sender (pin #3 must have a constant ground, pin #4 runs to pin #2 of pressure switch connector; pin #1 BU runs to ABS ECU pin #9 and pin #2 goes to pin #3 of pressure switch connector). If not then proceed further.
3. Remove all previous temporary wires. Temporary get a good ground connection to pins #2 and #1 of pressure switch connector (there's BK wire in stock for pin#1), connector must be plugged onto the switch. With ignition on you should live brakes: power-assisted, pump turns on and off according to system pressure. If so then either ground connection to pun #1 or WH wire between pin#2 of PS and pin#4 of LS are bad. If not then proceed further.
4. Remove all previous temporary wires. Run a good ground connection to pin #4 of pressure switch. Having ignition on you should be able to toggle the system (power-assistance) on and off with this very wire. If so then replace the pressure switch. If not then proceed further.
5. Remove all previous temporary wires. Having ignition on check that there's live 12V feed to #86 pin of pump relay in ABS fusebox. If not check #3 fuse, wires. You must be able to toggle this relay on and off when grounding BU wire that runs from #85 pin of this relay to #4 pin of pressure switch connector. Replace the relay, repair the wire.
6. Get yourself a copy of Bentley manual, it's worth every penny (or stuiver) spent.

You can use a needle connected to multimeter to pierce the wire in order to trace it and locate the breakage.

Wire color codes:
BL=BU=blue
BR=BN=brown
GL=YE=yellow
GN=green
GR=GY=gray
OG=orange
RA=PK=pink
RD=red
SV=BK=black
VL=violet
VT=WH=white

Important: if you pump runs for more then 2 minutes it gets overheated and goes south. After two minutes of run let it cool down for 10 minutes or more.

Zig

P.S.
Best regards to Mik211 if you see'im, he's got a green 3D turbo and lives not far away from Amsterdam.

posted by 77.37.1...
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