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I know I'm being redundant, but always, always, always, always change the o-ring in any clutch slave you get. They are typically twisted and fail quickly.
Disconnect the hard line to the slave and have someone pump the pedal a bit to see if you are getting any fluid moving. That's an easy way to check the master.
To rotate the flywheel, you can use a prybar against the fw teeth and on of the big bolts by the starter. Just walk the fw around. You'll need another bar to keep the FW from rotating back when you get to the compression cycle - you'll know what I'm talking about when it happens.
That's the easiest way.
Be careful spraying stuff. You don't want to contaminate the clutch disk.
If it's rusty, you'll have a hard time (maybe) getting the shaft out of the clutch disk and the trans. If you end up taking out the slave, take the fans out and put at least a sheet of cardboard up against the radiator. It'll save you hands when you take that shaft out. If the shaft is stubborn (and I'm guessing it will be) take the bolt out and find a grade 8 replacement that is longer. Use a socket that the shaft can slide in, stack a couple of washers and then put the longer bolt in. By tightening the bolt, the shaft will come out.
bolt - washer - washer - socket - stuck shaft
You have to pull the slave, clutch disk and pressure plate all at the same time. It can drive you mad. To gain some room, unbolt the starter and slide it back. It helps with the swearing.
When you put it back together, you have to slide the shaft through the center of the clutch disk - and it can be a PITA. I use a couple of small wire ties to hold the disk in place and it makes life easier. Don't do them to tight.
If you're doing all this - you might as well change the seal between the engine and FW. They can also be a pain to get out. Someone posted a good method a while back.
Good luck and hopefully it's not the slave!!
posted by 24.99.132...
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