Re: suspension - Saab 900 Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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Re: suspension
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Posted by oldsaab (more from oldsaab) on Wed, 6 Oct 2010 17:34:15 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: suspension, turbocon86, Tue, 5 Oct 2010 06:19:56
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yours being an "S" model the upper bushes go out at the about the same time, on turbos the front upper goes early due to heat. you can see the upper bushings on the right side easily to see if the metal sleeve in the center behind the bold is still surrounded by rubber and centered. Generally the ball joints are the ones that go and cause rattle noises. If you go over an exposed railroad track that is perpendicular to the road, open both front windows, and get up ti 10 mph over the speed limit if that is save, and shift into neutral several car lengths before you coast over the tracks. you will get a very good indication of work ball joints. The labor to replace two on one side (depends on how you remove them) is about 15 minutes more than doing one. In for a Penny in for a Pound. do both on a side.

I like to just a shop size floor jack under the cross member (the aluminum one that is side to side that the bash plate screws to on the rear portion) and then put a good quality jack stand under each side in the slots where the included floor jack would go, but FIRST you need to lossen the 32 mm nut on the axle, and you may as well losen the 19 mm on lugs too, just enough that you can turn them without the added leverage bar. DO NOT EVER roll the car FOR ANY DISTANCE, NOT, NADA. on those wheels unless and until you retorque the wheel nuts on the axles. you will ruin the wheel bearings at $50 each plus need to have the old bearings pressed out and new pressed in (which also requires pressing the hub out and then back in).

Then it's 17 mm socket and box wrench to remove the ball joints from the upper and lower A arms and a 19 MM box or open wrench to remove the large bolts at the knuckle. You need a 2.5 lb slege too. this works the best to remove the single bolt side of the ball joint, no do not hit end of the threaded shaft, but look on the side of the knuckle and you will see a milled flat surface. hold in the air via the ball joint and smack that surface, HARDER, and it will release. This is also how you get the tie rod off too.

I have a write up with pictures. send me an email and I will send to you. it's in .pdf format so not too large of a file.

Lyle
thesaabguy


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